Climb Kazbek and Elbrus — 10-Day Two-Summit Programme

The Kazbek and Elbrus programme is an extended version of the classic ascent of Kazbek from the south. In a single trip participants climb Kazbek, 5033 m, travel from Georgia to Russia and climb the western summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

This format means you do not return to the same part of the Caucasus twice, and it makes the fullest use of the acclimatisation you gain. The main altitude gain happens on Kazbek, where participants walk up, cover long stages and spend several nights high on the mountain.

Within this programme Kazbek is climbed from the Georgian side by the classic route through the meteorological station. Kazbek has more demanding terrain than the classic southern route on Elbrus: the group crosses the glacier, moves in crampons, works roped and uses mountaineering equipment.

The main accommodation on the Kazbek stage is planned in a guest house or hotel in Kazbegi and in the meteorological station hut. In high season, when the hut is busy, some of the nights may be spent in tents beside it. That possibility is discussed with participants in advance and depends on what accommodation is actually available.

Once the Kazbek stage is complete the group travels to Russia and continues on the southern slope of Elbrus. Here the cable cars and the high mountain hut are used, so the move to the next ascent takes less time and does not require the full acclimatisation programme to be repeated.

The acclimatisation gained on Kazbek usually makes the altitude of Elbrus easier to tolerate. A successful ascent of the first summit does not, however, guarantee reaching the second. The weather, the state of the route, accumulated fatigue and how the participants are feeling are all assessed separately before each departure.

The classic Elbrus stage can be changed for a private group. Instead of the usual ascent from the south it is possible to arrange a traverse of Elbrus from north to south, or the Cross of Elbrus route. Changes of that kind require the logistics, the length of the programme, the number of guides and the cost to be agreed separately.

The programme suits participants who want the experience of two different routes in one trip. Kazbek gives a long walking acclimatisation and an introduction to glacier terrain, while the southern slope of Elbrus lets you use developed infrastructure and concentrate on the climb to 5642 m.

Day 1. Meeting in Kazbegi and the start of the programme.

We meet participants in Kazbegi, also known as Stepantsminda. For those arriving from Tbilisi or Vladikavkaz a transfer is arranged on request in advance.

After checking into the hotel there is an introduction to the guide and the group. We go through the Kazbek and Elbrus programme, check personal equipment and brief the group on the route and the safety rules. In the evening, dinner and rest before the active part of the programme begins. Night in a hotel in Kazbegi.

Day 2. Acclimatisation excursion to the Holy Trinity church, 2170 m.

After breakfast we set off for the Holy Trinity church at Gergeti, at about 2170 m. This first acclimatisation excursion starts the adaptation to altitude, lets you check how you feel and prepares you for the longer stage to the meteorological station.

During the excursion the guide assesses the group’s pace and looks at clothing, footwear and how personal equipment is distributed. Back in Kazbegi participants rest and have dinner at their own expense. Night in a hotel.

Day 3. Over the Saberce pass to the meteorological station, 3600 m.

After breakfast the high-altitude part of the programme begins. The first section is covered by vehicle, after which we continue on foot towards the Saberce pass, at about 3600 m.

The route crosses a high valley and a glacial zone. Participants carry their own belongings unless porter services have been ordered in advance. After a long stage we reach the meteorological station, settle in and rest. In high season, when the hut is busy, the night may be spent in tents beside it. The stage takes about 7–9 hours. Night at the meteorological station or in tents.

Day 4. Acclimatisation excursion to the chapel at 4000 m.

We make an acclimatisation excursion to the chapel at about 4000 m. The gradual gain in altitude helps the body prepare for the ascent of Kazbek and lets participants test their condition well above the overnight altitude.

During the excursion the group goes over the skills of moving on high-mountain terrain and gets to know the character of the way ahead. Having reached the planned altitude we return to the meteorological station, rest and recover. Night at the meteorological station or in tents beside the hut. Maximum altitude of the day about 4000 m.

Day 5. Rest and preparation for the ascent of Kazbek.

The day is given to recovery before the main climb on Kazbek. Participants rest, check clothing, footwear and mountaineering equipment, and prepare rucksacks, food and water.

The guide assesses the forecast, the state of the route and the condition of the group, and then gives the final briefing. We go through the start time, the order of movement, working roped and what to do if the weather or a participant’s condition changes. Night at the meteorological station or in tents beside the hut.

Day 6. Ascent of Kazbek, 5033 m.

An early rise and departure. The exact start time is set by the lead guide, taking into account the forecast, the state of the snow and ice and the readiness of the group. The climb follows the classic route from the Georgian side and includes a long stretch on the glacier.

Participants move in crampons and roped, following the guides’ instructions. On summit day a ratio of 1 guide to 3 participants is observed. The climb to the summit usually takes about 6–8 hours and depends on the state of the route, the weather and the group’s pace.

After reaching the summit of Kazbek, 5033 m, we make a short stop and begin the descent to the meteorological station. Until we are back at the hut it is necessary to stay concentrated and to keep to the rules for moving on the glacier. Night at the meteorological station or in tents beside the hut. Maximum altitude of the day 5033 m.

Day 7. Reserve day, or descent to Kazbegi.

The reserve day is used if the weather, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent of Kazbek the day before. The decision on a further attempt is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions.

If the ascent took place on day 6, the group descends from the meteorological station to Kazbegi. After the long stage we check into the hotel, rest and prepare for the journey to Russia. Night in a hotel in Kazbegi.

Day 8. Journey from Kazbegi to the Elbrus region and the lift to the hut at 3888 m.

After breakfast we set off from Kazbegi for the Elbrus region. The route crosses the state border between Georgia and Russia, so participants must have with them all the documents required for entry and for crossing the border.

On arrival at the southern slope of Elbrus we take the cable car up to the high mountain hut at 3888 m.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the lift cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; if necessary a vehicle is hired for the ascent. If its cost exceeds the price of a cable-car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in, rest after the journey and prepare equipment for the ascent of Elbrus. The acclimatisation gained on Kazbek makes it possible to move to the high-altitude part without additional acclimatisation days on Elbrus. Night in the hut.

Day 9. Ascent of the western summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

We set off early in the morning. The exact start time is set by the lead guide, taking into account the weather forecast, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. The climb to the western summit of Elbrus follows the classic southern route.

On summit day a ratio of 1 guide to 3 participants is observed. A snowcat may be used to shorten part of the route, on the way up or on the way down. That decision must be taken and agreed no later than 12:00 on the previous day.

The length of the climb depends on the weather, the state of the route and the group’s pace, and is usually about 8–12 hours. After reaching the western summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, we begin the descent to the high mountain hut. Night in the hut. Maximum altitude of the day 5642 m.

Day 10. Reserve day, descent and the end of the programme.

A reserve day is provided in case unfavourable weather or other circumstances prevented the ascent of Elbrus on the main day. The decision to use the reserve day is taken by the lead guide.

If the ascent took place the day before, we descend by cable car to the valley after breakfast and travel to the airport. The scheduled transfer time is 15:00. We recommend choosing flights no earlier than 19:30, to keep a margin for the journey and for possible delays.

If the reserve day is needed for the ascent, the schedule for the descent and departure may change. When booking tickets, therefore, allow for the programme to be adjusted because of the weather.

• A Mountain Guide team leader throughout the programme
• Mountain guides on the Kazbek and Elbrus summit days — strictly at a ratio of 1 guide to 3 participants
• Accommodation in Kazbegi in a guest house or hotel in twin rooms, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• Nights at the meteorological station or in tents beside it, as set out in the programme
• Accommodation in the high mountain hut on Elbrus, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• Meals during the mountain part of the programme
• Breakfasts at the hotels
• All the transfers set out in the programme, including the cable cars, from the airport or railway station and back
• Group equipment: ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a group first-aid kit

• International flights
• Porter services for personal baggage
• Personal equipment
• Lunches and dinners during the stay in Kazbegi
• Medical insurance and the costs of search and rescue and evacuation
• Visas and consular fees, where these are required for your citizenship
• A national park permit, where one is required for the route
• The snowcat on Elbrus summit day, if it is used; it is charged separately at the current rate for the ascent, the descent or both
• The single occupancy supplement
• Personal expenses: drinks, internet, telephone calls and anything else not provided for in the programme
• Additional costs arising from a change to the programme or a departure from the original route
• The supplement for the alternative vehicle lift if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable-car ticket

Documents:

• Passport
• international passport
• Airplane / Train Tickets
• Medical insurance

ScrewPersonal equipment:

• Backpack. 50-60 liter.
• Sleeping bag, comfort temperature from 0°C to + 10°C (from June to September inclusive), from -20°C to 0°C (from October to May inclusive).
• Sleeping mattress.
• Trekking poles be sure to have rings of at least 70 mm
• Crampons
• Ice axe. Classical.
• Harness.
• Carabiners – 2 pcs.
• Mountaineering Lanyard
• Helmet
• Ice screw on a separate carbine
• Personal dishes

Clothes and shoes:

• Climbing boots single-layer or double. Double – plastic or leather. Of plastic, we recommend Scarpa Vega – perhaps the warmest of all double boots.
• Sneakers trekking or boots trekking. In May and early June, you can still see snow at the first acclimatization exits, in which case the advantage of shoes over sneakers is undeniable. However, after mid-June and until the end of September they can be replaced with sneakers.
• Waterproof layer – Jacket + pants. The industry offers a range of products from simple membranes 5000/5000 to products from Gore-Tex.
• Fleece pants and jacket.
• Thermo underwear top + bottom.
• Down jacket. Thick and warm.
• Mittens are warm.
• Thick.gloves.
• Thin gloves.
• Bandana (in addition to sun protection in the valley, it can be used to warm your throat or face in the cold)
• Hat warm.
• Warm trekking socks for climbing day

Miscellaneous:

• LED headlamp
• Sunglasses.
• Ski goggles.
• Thermos – 1 liter. Better without a button in the lid.
• Windproof mask on the lower part of the face (you can replace it with a scarf with some success).
• Gaiters.
• Sunblock and lip balm.
• Chemical heating pads (not necessary, but can be very useful).
• Personal medical kit.
• Knee supports.