Climb Elbrus from the West, 11 Days

The west route is one of the most self-supported and least visited ways up the highest summit in Europe. Unlike the classic ascent of Elbrus from the south, the western route runs far from cable cars, hotels, cafes and other tourist infrastructure.

Participants climb the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, by a route with no porters, no snowcats and no organised service points. Personal equipment and part of the group equipment have to be carried by the participants themselves. Throughout the mountain part of the programme the group lives in tents and moves its camp progressively higher up the western slope.

The west route crosses moraines, glaciers and snow and ice slopes. Hidden crevasses are possible on some sections, so participants move in crampons, use a climbing harness, work with the rope and travel roped up where necessary.

Good physical preparation and basic mountaineering skills are required. Experience of moving on glaciers, of rope work, of sleeping above 4000 m and of climbing above 5000 m is highly desirable. The west route is strongly not recommended to participants without that experience.

The defining feature of the programme is its high degree of self-sufficiency. There are far fewer people on the western slope, mobile coverage may be absent, and there is almost no possibility of using transport quickly or of drawing on infrastructure for help. Discipline, coordinated work within the group and following the lead guide’s decisions therefore matter especially.

Tactics, the line taken across the glaciers, the position of the camps and whether the ascent can continue are all decided by the lead guide, who takes account of the weather, the state of the snow and ice, the speed of the group and how participants feel. The planned schedule may be changed if safety requires it.

After the West summit has been reached there are different ways of finishing the route. In suitable conditions the group may descend to the southern side of Elbrus and shorten the programme by one or two days. All the necessary equipment then has to be carried over the summit, so this option must be agreed with the guide in advance.

The west route can be serious preparation for longer self-supported high-altitude expeditions such as Lenin Peak, Muztagh Ata, Denali and Khan Tengri. The programme lets you test your endurance, your tolerance of altitude and your readiness to work independently on a remote route.

A successful ascent of Elbrus from the west does not, however, replace the experience of a multi-week expedition. Higher mountains differ in their length, in accumulated fatigue, in the complexity of the logistics and in the need to move repeatedly between high camps.

Check your insurance before booking: a self-supported western route requires cover for mountaineering, for the declared altitude, for search and rescue operations and for evacuation.

Day 1. Arrival in Mineralnye Vody and preparation for the ascent.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After check-in there is an introduction to the guide, a check of personal and group equipment and a detailed briefing on the west route programme.

The western route runs far from developed infrastructure, so it is particularly important to check clothing, boots, mountaineering equipment and the readiness of participants for self-supported conditions before the expedition starts. The group has dinner together in the evening. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Transfer to the western slope of Elbrus and acclimatisation carry to camp 1.

After breakfast we drive to the village of Khurzuk and continue by off-road vehicle to the base camp on the Dzhyly-Su meadow at about 2500 m. We pitch the tents, distribute the equipment and begin acclimatising.

We then make a carry up to camp 1 at about 3500 m and leave part of the personal and group equipment there for the later stages of the programme. The route crosses grassy slopes and glacial moraine. After the carry we return to base camp. Overnight in tents at about 2500 m. The active part lasts around 4–5 hours. The high point of the day is about 3500 m.

Day 3. Move up to camp 1 at 3500 m.

After breakfast we climb the now familiar route to camp 1 with the remaining kit. We move at a calm pace, watch carefully how everyone feels and do not force the altitude gain.

On arrival we pitch the tents, organise the camp and prepare equipment for the next acclimatisation hike. The rest of the day is given to rest and adaptation to altitude. Overnight in tents at about 3500 m. The move takes around 3–4 hours.

Day 4. Acclimatisation hike and snow and ice session at 3900 m.

We make an acclimatisation hike to about 3900 m and carry up part of the equipment for the next stage of the route. During the hike participants hold a snow and ice session and revise the skills needed on the western slope of Elbrus.

Under the guides’ supervision we practise movement on snow and ice, work with the rope and ice axe, and self-arrest after a slip on the slope. After the session we return to camp 1 to rest and recover. Overnight in tents at about 3500 m. The high point of the day is about 3900 m.

Day 5. Move up to camp 2 at 4150 m.

We move up to camp 2 at about 4150 m. On the way the group crosses one of the more difficult sections of the western route, which requires careful movement, concentration and coordinated work.

The guide sets the order of movement and the technique required according to the actual state of the snow and ice. On arrival we pitch the tents, organise the camp and rest before the next altitude gain. Overnight in tents at about 4150 m. The move takes around 4–5 hours.

Day 6. Climb to the West shoulder of Elbrus and establishment of camp 3 at 4600 m.

We continue up the western slope to the West shoulder of Elbrus. On the West plateau we establish camp 3 at about 4600 m, the last high camp before the summit.

After the tents are pitched participants rest and prepare clothing and equipment for the main day. The guide assesses the condition of the group, checks the forecast and the actual conditions on the route, then gives the final briefing and sets the tactics for the ascent. Overnight in tents at about 4600 m. The move takes around 3–4 hours.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m.

An early start onto the route. The exact departure time is decided by the lead guide on the basis of the forecast, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. The climb follows a snow and ice slope of moderate steepness and demands endurance, concentration and confident work with mountaineering equipment.

Depending on the state of the route participants move roped up and use the skills practised during the snow and ice session. The lead guide sets the pace and decides whether the ascent can continue, taking account of the weather, the speed of the group and how each participant feels.

After reaching the West summit of Elbrus, 5642 m, we make a short stop and begin the descent to camp 3. Concentration must be maintained after the summit as well, and the guides’ instructions followed until the route is fully complete. Overnight in tents at about 4600 m. The active part lasts around 8–12 hours. The high point of the day is 5642 m.

Day 8. Reserve day, or the start of the descent to camp 1.

The reserve day is held for strong wind, poor visibility, unfavourable route conditions or other circumstances that prevented the ascent on the main day. The lead guide decides on a further attempt on the basis of the actual conditions and the state of the group.

If the ascent took place the day before, we begin the descent from the West plateau to camp 1 at about 3500 m. After a long day at altitude it is important to stay attentive and to manage your effort throughout the descent. Overnight in tents.

Day 9. Descent to the base camp on the Dzhyly-Su meadow.

We continue down the western slope of Elbrus to the base camp on the Dzhyly-Su meadow. After several days of self-supported living at altitude we return to the lower part of the route, pitch the tents and rest.

If time and conditions allow, it is possible to visit the Dzhyly-Su mineral springs. In the evening participants sort out their equipment and prepare for the return to Mineralnye Vody. Overnight in tents at about 2500 m.

Day 10. Return to Mineralnye Vody.

After breakfast we strike the base camp and finish the self-supported part of the expedition. Transport takes the group from the Dzhyly-Su area to Mineralnye Vody.

After checking into the hotel participants can shower, rest, dry their clothing and sort through their equipment. A celebratory dinner marking the end of the west route ascent is held in the evening. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 11. End of the programme and flight home.

After breakfast a transfer is arranged to Mineralnye Vody airport. We recommend choosing flights with enough margin in case the schedule changes because of the weather or because the reserve day was used.

This completes the west route ascent of Elbrus.

• Guides: a lead guide throughout the programme and assistant guides. The ratio is kept strictly at one guide to two participants; a group of four participants is therefore accompanied by two guides. The number of group summit attempts within the programme is not limited. However, if part of the group reaches the summit and part does not, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts are paid separately
• Hotel in Mineralnye Vody with accommodation in twin or triple rooms, for the number of nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme, from the airport and back to the airport
• Meals throughout the expedition. Only dinner is provided on the first day and only breakfast on the last day. In the self-supported camps participants may need to help the guide with the cooking
• Group equipment: tents, ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a group first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for rented and personal equipment for the duration of the ascent

• Flights
• Single occupancy supplement
• Early check-in and late check-out at the hotel before or after the programme. We always try to agree additional benefits for our guests with our partners, so where it is possible early check-in or late check-out may be provided free of charge
• Personal equipment
• Mountaineering insurance covering search and rescue operations and helicopter evacuation
• National park permit, where one is required for the route
• A private guide
• Porter services
• Additional costs arising from changes to the programme or from deviating from the original route

Rock-and-Rent のレンタルには、高品質でレベルの高い装備がすべて揃っています。事前にすべて予約しておけば、ショートパンツ姿で来ていただいても問題ありません（特に事前予約の場合、エルブルス西側までもお届けします）。

私たちは装備を選定する際、ただ一つの基準だけを重視しました。それは、2001年から登ってきたエルブルスの条件に最大限適合していることです。

そして、このリストは非常に慎重に作成されています。会社のガイドたちは合計で数千回の登頂を経験しており、この中に不要なものが一つもないと私たちは考えています。

書類：

• パスポート
• 国境通行許可証
• 航空券／鉄道チケット
• 医療保険
• バウチャー（外国籍の方）

個人装備：

• バックパック（80〜100リットル）
• マット
• スリーピングバッグ（夏季：快適温度 −20℃〜−15℃）
• トレッキングポール（リング径70mm以上必須）
• アイゼン
• クラシックタイプのアイスアックス（ハーネスに連結するための直径5〜6mmのレプシュヌール付き、長さ2〜3m）
• アイススクリュー（別カラビナで携行）
• クライミングハーネス
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 5個（うち少なくとも3個は大型推奨。ミトン着用時の操作性が大幅に向上します）
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード

衣類・靴：

• エルブルスではスキーウェアは使えますか？
• アルパインブーツ（二重／三重構造）— プラスチック製または革製
• トレッキングブーツ
• 防水レイヤー（ジャケット＋パンツ）。推奨メンブレン性能：10,000 / 10,000以上
• フリース上下
• 上下のベースレイヤー（保温下着）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で暖かいもの）。エルブルス向けの適正なダウンジャケットの重量は700g以上が目安。エルブルス西側ルートでは、さらにダウンベストや予備のフリースを追加することを推奨
• 防寒ミトン
• 厚手の手袋（スキー用）
• 薄手の手袋（フリース）
• バンダナ（谷では日除けとして、寒冷時には首や顔の保温にも使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日のための暖かいトレッキングソックス
• 日除け用帽子
• トレッキングパンツおよびTシャツ（長袖推奨）
• トレッキング用ソックス（トレッキング日数分が望ましい）

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間24時間以上）
• サングラス（保護等級3〜4、側面からの光も完全に遮断できるもの）
• スキーゴーグル（保護等級1〜2、悪天候用）
• 保温ボトル（1リットル、フタにボタンのないものが望ましい）
• 防風フェイスマスク（スカーフで代用可能な場合もあり）
• 日焼け止め（ブランド品、SPF30〜50。実際には30と50の差はほとんどありません）
• リップクリーム（SPF15）
• 個人用救急キット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター
• ゲイター（必須ではありませんが、特に5〜6月は役立つことがあります）
• 化学カイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つ場合があります）