Two Summits of Elbrus, 9 Days

The ascent of both summits of Elbrus is the fullest version of the classic southern route. In a single summit push participants climb the West summit at 5642 m and the East summit at 5621 m.

Elbrus has two independent summits separated by a saddle. They differ in shape, in height and in the views they open onto the Caucasus. Most programmes include only the higher West summit, whereas this route lets you see both sides of Elbrus and finish the ascent without having to choose between two objectives.

The programme follows the southern route and uses the infrastructure of the Elbrus region and the high-altitude shelter. Acclimatisation begins in the valley, continues on the treks and finishes with high-altitude hikes on the slope of Elbrus. That sequence helps prepare the body for long work at altitude, but it does not remove the effect of thin air.

Unlike the standard nine-day ascent of Elbrus from the south, the aim of this programme is to climb both summits in one summit push. After the West summit the group returns to the saddle and, in suitable conditions, continues to the East summit.

Climbing the second summit does not require a full descent to the shelter and a repeat of the main part of the route. From the saddle to the East summit there is about 300 m of ascent. The second summit takes roughly 2–3 additional hours, although the actual time depends on the state of the slope, the weather and the pace of the group.

Climbing both summits of Elbrus is harder than the standard route not technically but above all in length and total effort. After the West summit participants have to keep enough strength for the additional altitude gain, for the return to the saddle and for the subsequent descent to the shelter. Good physical condition, properly completed acclimatisation and discipline on the move therefore matter especially.

Altitude affects each person individually. Even a strong and well-prepared participant can adapt slowly to the lack of oxygen. Any deterioration in how you feel must be reported to the guide at once.

The decision to continue after the first summit is taken by the lead guide, who considers the time, the forecast and the actual weather, the state of the route, the speed of movement and how participants feel. If there is not enough safe time or strength in hand, the group begins the descent. The aim of the programme is both summits, but safety always outweighs the original plan.

A long summit day requires general endurance and readiness to move for many hours at altitude. Preparation is best started well in advance.

Weather has a direct effect on whether both summits can be climbed. Strong wind, precipitation, poor visibility or deteriorating snow may make it necessary to shorten the route even after a successful ascent of the first summit.

The route between the summits crosses the saddle of Elbrus. In this area you can see the remains of a Land Rover taken up the mountain in 1997 and now partly buried in snow. This unusual object has become part of the history of climbing on Elbrus.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the programme: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. We drive about 200 km to the hotel in the upper Baksan valley at the foot of Elbrus; the journey takes around three hours. After checking in we have dinner, meet the other participants and hold a briefing on the programme, the route, acclimatisation and the safety rules. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation hike on Cheget, 3000 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike of the programme, climbing the slope of Cheget to about 3000 m. A gradual altitude gain helps the body begin adapting to the lack of oxygen and lets the guide assess the pace and condition of the participants. After reaching the planned altitude we descend on foot into the valley and return to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 3. Acclimatisation trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

We continue acclimatising on a trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at about 2700 m. After a short rest we climb to the observatory at 3100 m. A second consecutive hike allows more time at altitude and prepares us for the move up to the shelter. After the route we descend to the hotel to rest and recover. Overnight at the hotel. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 4. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation hike to 4200 m.

After breakfast we ride the cable car up to the high-mountain shelter at 3888 m.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in, rest and after a light lunch or snack walk up the slope of Elbrus to about 4200 m. This first hike after moving up to the shelter helps judge how the body reacts to the sharp change in altitude and prepares us for the next stage of acclimatisation. We return to the shelter. Overnight in the shelter. Ascent about 500 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks, 4700 m.

We climb to the Pastukhov Rocks at about 4700 m. This is the highest acclimatisation hike of the programme before the ascent of the West and East summits of Elbrus. We move at a calm pace, watch how everyone feels and spend several hours well above the shelter. After reaching the planned altitude we descend to rest and recover. Overnight in the shelter. Ascent about 800 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the ascent of both summits.

The day is given to recovering strength before a long summit day. We check personal and group equipment and prepare clothing, boots and everything else that is needed. The guides give the final briefing and go through the order of movement, communication within the group and the specifics of the crossing between the West and East summits. The final plan is made according to the forecast, the state of the route and how participants feel. Overnight in the shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit, 5642 m, and the East summit, 5621 m.

We set out early in the morning, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact time is decided by the lead guide according to the weather, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. We first climb the West summit of Elbrus at 5642 m. After returning to the saddle we assess the time remaining, the weather and the condition of the participants. If conditions allow the route to continue safely, we head for the East summit at 5621 m. The second summit requires about 300 m of additional ascent and takes roughly 2–3 hours. The decision to continue is always taken by the lead guide on the route itself.

A snowcat may be used on the ascent where necessary. The decision to use it is taken in advance, no later than 12:00 on the previous day. On summit day the ratio is one guide to three participants. After completing the route we descend to the high-mountain shelter. Overnight in the shelter. The height difference between the shelter and the high point of the route is 1754 m.

Day 8. Reserve day and return to the hotel.

If the weather, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent on the main day, the reserve day is used for a further attempt. The decision is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions. If the ascent took place on day 7, we descend by cable car in the morning and return to the hotel. After the end of the high-altitude part of the programme there is time to rest and recover. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 9. Departure to the airport.

The group transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport leaves at 07:00 — please take this into account when choosing your return flight. If your flight is in the evening, you can leave your luggage in the airport left-luggage office and travel independently by taxi to Pyatigorsk. In the town you can visit the site of Mikhail Lermontov’s duel, the Proval cave and the viewpoint, which in clear weather looks out over Pyatigorsk and Elbrus.

• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the programme, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts within the days provided by the programme, at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• The services of a cook
• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the programme
• Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter for the number of nights set out in the programme
• All transfers within the programme from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back
• Cable car tickets as set out in the programme
• Three meals a day throughout the programme, from dinner on the day of arrival to breakfast on the day of departure
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day, paid separately on the spot where it is used. The snowcat is charged by the operator at the current season tariff and is paid separately on the spot. We try to agree additional options with our partners, and when rooms are free early check-in or late check-out is sometimes provided at no charge
• Personal equipment
• Medical insurance
• Additional costs arising from changes to the programme requested by participants or caused by circumstances the programme does not provide for
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

Rock-and-Rent のレンタルショップには、最高品質の装備がすべて揃っています。事前に予約していただければ、文字通りショートパンツ一枚で来ていただいても問題ありません。

私たちは2001年からエルブルスに登り続けており、装備選定の基準はただ一つ――エルブルスの環境に最大限適していることです。

そして、このリストは非常に慎重に作成されています。弊社のガイドはこれまでに合計で数千回の登頂を行ってきましたが、この中に不要なものは一つもないと考えています。

書類：

• パスポート
• 航空券／鉄道チケット
• 医療保険
• バウチャー（外国籍の方）

個人装備：

• バックパック（30〜40リットル）
• ダッフルバッグ（80〜100リットル）
• 寝袋：快適温度 0℃〜＋10℃（6月〜9月を含む）、−20℃〜0℃（10月〜5月を含む）
• トレッキングポール（直径70mm以上のバスケット付き必須）
• アイゼン
• クラシックタイプのピッケル（ハーネスに連結するための5〜6mm補助ロープ付き、長さ2〜3m）
• ハーネス（クライミング用）
• ヘルメット
• カラビナ 3枚（できれば大きめのもの。厚手の手袋でも扱いやすいため）
• セルフビレイ用ランヤード

服装・靴：

• スキーウェアはエルブルスに適していますか？
• ダブルまたはトリプル構造の登山靴（プラスチック製または革製）
• ※シングルブーツの場合はオーバーブーツ使用時のみ可（ゲイターとは別物です）
• トレッキングシューズまたはトレッキングブーツ
• ※5月〜6月初旬の順応登山では雪が残ることがあり、その場合はブーツが有利です。6月中旬〜9月末まではスニーカーでも可能ですが、足首を捻るリスクがあるため、防水性が保たれていることを必ず確認してください
• 防水レイヤー（ジャケット＋パンツ）：耐水圧10,000/10,000以上推奨
• フリース上下
• 保温インナー（上・下）
• フード付きダウンジャケット（厚手で保温性の高いもの。エルブルス用の一般的な重量は700g以上）
• 防寒用ミトン
• 厚手の手袋（スキー用）
• 薄手の手袋（フリース）
• バンダナ（谷では日除けに、寒冷時は首や顔の防寒にも使用可能）
• ニット帽
• 登頂日のための暖かいトレッキングソックス
• 日除け用ヘッドウェア
• トレッキングパンツおよびTシャツ（できれば長袖）
• トレッキング用ソックス（トレッキング日数分あると望ましい）

その他：

• ヘッドランプ（連続点灯時間12時間以上）
• サングラス（UVカットカテゴリー3〜4、側面からの光も完全に遮るもの）
• スキーゴーグル（カテゴリー1〜2、悪天候用）
• サーモス（1リットル、フタにボタンのないタイプ推奨）
• フェイスマスク（下半分用、防風タイプ。スカーフで代用可能な場合もあり）
• 日焼け止め（信頼できるブランド、SPF30〜50。実際には30と50の差はほとんどありません）
• リップクリーム（SPF15）
• 個人用救急セット
• 伸縮包帯および／またはサポーター
• ゲイター（必須ではありませんが、特に5〜6月は役立つことがあります）
• 使い捨てカイロ（必須ではありませんが、非常に役立つ場合があります）