Crampons for Elbrus have to suit not only the route but the particular pair of boots you will be wearing. The main mistake is to buy crampons separately, put them on the boots for the first time just before setting off, and discover play in the fitting or an incompatible binding. On the list for the nine-day programme from the south crampons are mandatory personal equipment, and the guide checks the final adjustment.
Why boots and crampons are chosen together
Bindings come in strap, semi-automatic and automatic forms. Whether they are compatible depends on the stiffness of the sole, the shape of the toe and heel, the presence of welts and the geometry of the boot itself. The name of a popular model is no guarantee that it will sit correctly on any footwear.
Petzl’s technical instructions require you to check that the boot does not shift in the binding upwards, sideways or lengthways. Wear on the boot can also change how firmly it is held over time. Compatibility is therefore checked on the pair of boots the person is actually going to wear on summit day.
What to check before the trip
- The left and right crampons have not been mixed up
- The length is adjusted for each boot
- The toe and heel are held with no noticeable play
- The straps are long enough to be worked in gloves
- There are no cracks, heavy corrosion or distortion in the frame
- The anti-balling plates are fitted and undamaged
Once adjusted, try rocking the boot in different directions. If the crampon moves independently of the boot, the fitting is not finished. Poor compatibility cannot be made up for by over-tightening a strap or by home-made modifications to the parts.
What anti-balling plates are for
On some kinds of snow a dense lump gradually builds up under the frame. It lifts the points clear of the surface and makes a slip more likely. Anti-balling plates reduce the build-up, but they do not remove the need to keep an eye on your equipment. While walking, you watch the state of your crampons and respond to what your guide tells you.
Crampons without a working anti-balling system should not be treated as a complete set for a snow route. Home-made solutions can interfere with the binding and are no substitute for the manufacturer’s own part.
Do you need a technical model
More points and more aggressive front points do not automatically mean better on Elbrus. Technical crampons are made for harder ice and mixed ground, whereas on a long snow route what matters is predictable walking, compatibility and a fitting that holds its adjustment. The type is decided by the exact route and by your boots, not by how the crampon looks.
If what you are planning is not the classic south side but the ascent from the north or the self-supported western route, do not carry another programme’s list across to them automatically. Check the requirements on the page you have chosen first, and put the question to the organiser.
Why practice is needed
Before setting off you should be able to put crampons on and take them off in gloves, walk on level and on angled snow, and not catch the points on your trousers. These skills are practised with an instructor. This article is no substitute for hands-on teaching and is not a basis for going onto a glacier on your own.
Practice is what turns up the simple but critical problems: a strap that is too short, an awkward buckle, an incompatible gaiter, or a trouser leg that ends up under the points. Sorting that out in the night on summit day is too late.
Hire, and checking the set
For a single trip you can hire crampons together with boots. That makes it easier to end up with a compatible pair, but it does not remove the need to try them yourself. At Rock and Rent the size and the set are best booked in advance, then checked when they are handed over and once more before you set off.
The general list of personal and technical equipment is in the Elbrus equipment list. Do not take crampons in for a check without the boots: it is precisely how the two work together that has to be judged.
How to carry and store crampons
Sharp points damage clothing, rucksacks and other equipment. For transport, use a sturdy case or point protectors that will not come off inside your luggage. Do not leave wet crampons shut away for days: after a day out, clean them, dry them and look them over.
For a flight, technical equipment is packed in checked baggage with the sharp parts protected. Check the specific rules with your airline before you travel, because requirements for hand luggage and sports baggage change.
New crampons and hired ones
Your own crampons are convenient if you already know the binding and use one pair of boots regularly. Hire lets you match the set to particular footwear and avoid buying something for one ascent. In either case the responsibility for the pre-start check does not go away.
Do not use unknown second-hand crampons with no clear history of use and no inspection by someone competent. Signs of heavy impacts, a straightened frame, deep corrosion and incompatible home-made parts are grounds for replacing the set, not for finding its limit out on the route. Saving money on a doubtful set does not justify the risk of it failing.
Related programmes
The cards below lead to the classic route from the south and to the northern programme. Their conditions, logistics and requirements all differ.
In summary
The right crampons for Elbrus are compatible with your particular boots, have working anti-balling plates and are adjusted in advance. The model is chosen for the route, and the skills are practised in a session with an instructor. To have your set checked, get in touch with Mountain Guide by telephone +7(988)382-98-44.
Putting a kit together? Open the full contents page for mountain equipment: clothing, footwear, technical kit, hire and route-by-route lists.