Gvandra Trek — 7 Days to the Ullu-Kyol Lakes

Route line: Mineralnye Vody — Uchkulan — the Kichkinakol valley — Lake Gitche-Kyol — Lake Ullu-Kyol — the Lower Ullu-Kyol pass — the Makhar and Gondaray valleys — Mineralnye Vody.

After the preparation day in Mineralnye Vody the group moves to the start of the route and switches to tent life. The first stages lead through forest and hanging valleys to Lake Gitche-Kyol. An out-and-back outing to Ullu-Kyol is made from camp, so the main load stays in the tents that day. The group then crosses the ungraded Lower Ullu-Kyol pass and descends into the Makhar valley.

The main difficulty of the route is not technique but accumulated load. For several days in a row you walk on mountain trail, gain and lose height, keep your kit dry and recover in a tent. The longest stage calls for a steady pace, so regular walks on rough ground with a pack are needed before the trip.

Our material on guided treks, our guidance on choosing trekking footwear and the entry level of our mountain training plan will all help you prepare.

Day 1. Meeting with the guide at 13:00 at the airport or railway station in Mineralnye Vody. The group checks into the hotel and runs through the practical arrangements. Introductions and a briefing with the guide follow. Personal equipment is checked and shared equipment and food are handed out. There is a rental shop in town where anything left at home can be hired. Night at the hotel.

Day 2. Transfer by minibus to the village of Uchkulan. On arrival the group pitches camp and works through the practical arrangements. Equipment fitting. In the free time there is a chance to walk in the Uchkulan valley. Dinner. Further equipment fitting. Night in tents.

Day 3. Up at 07:00, breakfast at 08:00, departure at 08:30. Today brings a demanding climb up the valley to Lake Gitche-Kyol. The walking pattern is 40 minutes on the move, 20 minutes’ rest. The route runs through the forest zone and starts with a steep climb into the hanging valley of the Kichkinakol river; higher up it reaches the alpine zone and the going becomes more pleasant, moving from one hanging valley into the next. The base camp is pitched on the shore of the first lake. Dinner. Night in tents. Distance: 8.5 km.

Day 4. Up at 07:00, breakfast at 08:00, departure at 08:30. The walking pattern is 40 minutes on the move, 20 minutes’ rest. To be beside the jewel of Gvandra, Ullu-Kyol, one of the largest lakes in the Caucasus, and not walk up to it would be a waste, so today the group makes an out-and-back outing to the lake with light packs, taking a flask of tea, snacks and lunch. From the lake there is a magnificent view of the west and east Ullu-Kyol passes and of the summit of the same name. The lake itself is 650 metres long and more than three hundred across, and lies at 2817 metres above sea level. The return follows the same line. Dinner. Night in tents. Distance: 5 km.

Day 5. Up at 07:00, breakfast at 08:00, departure at 08:30. The walking pattern is 40 minutes on the move, 20 minutes’ rest. From the campsite the group gains 250 metres to reach the Lower Ullu-Kyol pass, 2900 metres, with the whole Main Caucasus Range laid out ahead. The task of the day is the descent into the Makhar valley: not difficult, but long and tiring. On the way the group calls at the narzan mineral springs and stops there for lunch. Camp is pitched in the Gondaray valley. Dinner. Night in tents. Distance: 16 km.

Day 6. Up at 08:00, breakfast at 09:00. The group packs up unhurriedly and waits for the transport to Mineralnye Vody. Return to the hotel. Farewell lunch. Night at the hotel.

Day 7. Departure home.

• Guides
• Hotel accommodation in twin or triple rooms, for the number of nights set out in the itinerary
• Tent accommodation, for the number of nights set out in the itinerary
• All transfers according to the itinerary
• Three meals a day throughout the trip, with dinner on the first day and breakfast on the last
• All the necessary permits and registrations
• Group equipment: satellite navigator, first-aid kit, tents and shared kitchen equipment

• Single occupancy
• Personal equipment
• Travel from your own region to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Any departure from the itinerary
• Any costs arising from a change to the itinerary

The route can be arranged for a group of friends, a walking club or a corporate group on its own dates, subject to a guide being free and conditions being suitable.

A private group can discuss an extra day, a separate transfer and a gentler pace. Decisions on the group composition and on whether children can take part are made after assessing experience, fitness and the requirements for border-zone documents.

A child from the age of 2 needs a backpack carrier and an adult ready to carry the extra weight for the whole of the walking section. Deuter child carriers can be reserved in advance from Rock and Rent; how the child sits in the carrier and how it fits with the adult’s own kit are checked before the start.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Medical insurance covering mountain trekking and the maximum altitude of the trip, at least 2900 m
• A border-zone permit, which you obtain yourself through the state services portal once the route and dates are agreed
• Digital copies of your main documents, saved on your phone and in cloud storage

You apply for the border-zone permit yourself through the Gosuslugi portal and keep track of whether it has been issued. Check the current requirements once the route is agreed and before you buy any non-refundable tickets.

The main season for this route is summer and early autumn, when the pass and the high valleys are clear of continuous snow cover. Early in the season, patches of snow can remain on the trail, and by September cold nights and early snow become more likely.

The weather in the Gvandra valleys changes quickly. Rain, thunderstorms, mist and strong wind are all possible; conditions on the pass are colder than at the lower camps. You need a waterproof layer, a warm layer and protection for the contents of your rucksack.

Your guide may change the start time or turn the group back if the state of the pass and the weather do not allow the route to be continued safely.

The first and last nights are spent in a hotel in twin or triple rooms, as set out in the itinerary. From the day of the drive to Uchkulan until the group leaves the valley, everyone lives in tents.

The price includes three meals a day: dinner on the first day, all meals along the route and breakfast on the day of departure. At the self-sufficient camps, participants help with water, pitching the camp and cooking.

Tell us about dietary restrictions and allergies in advance. Whether a special menu is possible is confirmed before the food is planned and bought.

Most of the trip is self-sufficient. The tented camps have no shower, no mains electricity and none of the sanitary infrastructure of a town. For washing you use your own toiletries and whatever water is available, as directed by your guide.

Phone coverage and internet are unreliable or absent. It is best to put your phone into power-saving mode; for charging you need your own power bank.

Your kit should be protected from rain in individual dry bags. Participants set up their own sleeping space, help organise the group camp and carry a share of the group load.

Documents:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack, 50-60 litres
• Summit pack, 15-20 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of 0 to -7 °C
• Foam sleeping mat
• Trekking poles
• Trekking boots
• Spare footwear for around camp (trekking sandals or trainers)
• Waterproof shell: jacket and trousers
• Fleece set for sleeping in
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• Down jacket with a hood, or a down gilet
• Lightweight gloves
• Bandana, buff, cap or sun hat, as you prefer
• Fleece hat
• Warm socks for sleeping in
• Trekking socks for walking days

Other items:

• LED head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life, plus spare batteries
• Sunglasses, category 3 protection or higher
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre
• Sun cream and lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Mug, spoon, bowl and knife