The traverse, the “Cross” and the climb of both summits are often lumped together as “extended Elbrus”. In practice they are three different undertakings. A traverse crosses the mountain over a single summit. The “Cross” links both summits and both sides of the massif. The two-summit itinerary also takes in both domes, but starts and finishes on the south side. Choosing the wrong one here does not just mean a different view from the window: it means a different length of summit day and different logistics once you are off the top.
What counts as a traverse of Elbrus
A traverse is a route that starts on one side of the mountain and finishes on the other. On the Mountain Guide itineraries, climbers reach the West summit at 5642 m, then return to the saddle and carry on down the opposite slope.
You can choose a south-to-north traverse or a north-to-south traverse. In both cases the point is to cross Elbrus from side to side rather than return the way you came up. A detailed comparison of the two directions is given in the article “The Elbrus traverse: south to north or north to south”.
How the “Cross” differs from a traverse
The “Cross” keeps the idea of crossing the massif but adds a second summit. You have to reach not only the higher West summit but also the East summit at 5621 m. To do that, after the first summit the group descends to the saddle, gains height again, and only then continues to the far side of the mountain.
On the south-to-north “Cross”, the approved sequence is the West summit first, then the East summit, then the descent to the north. That order reduces the need to deal with the large crevasses of the northern slope at the very end of the descent. Reaching even one of the summits counts as a successful outcome for the itinerary; whether the group can continue to the second is judged by the guide on the mountain itself.
The north-to-south “Cross” begins in more self-contained conditions. The order of the summits and the onward option are decided by the lead guide according to the actual state of the slopes, the weather and the readiness of the group.
How the two-summit itinerary works
Climbing both summits of Elbrus starts on the south side, uses the southern infrastructure and, after both summits, returns to the same side. That is the fundamental difference from the “Cross”: you do not finish on the northern slope and need no separate logistics on the far side of the massif.
The usual order is the West summit, a descent to the saddle and then the climb to the East summit. The second summit adds roughly 300 m of ascent and several hours of work, though the actual time depends on the state of the slope, the wind, visibility and your pace. Even when both summits appear in the name of the tour, the guide may stop the group after the first.
Comparing the three formats
| Format | Summits | Finish | The key difference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traverse | West | On the opposite side | Crossing the massif over a single summit |
| The “Cross” | West and East | On the opposite side | Two summits plus a full crossing |
| Both summits | West and East | On the south side | Both domes without changing the side you finish on |
Why the effort involved is different
The main difficulty of these itineraries lies not in one short technical section but in the overall length of the day. By the time you leave the first summit you have already been working for many hours above 5000 m. For a second summit, or for a descent down the other side, you need to keep your concentration, your coordination and your ability to follow instructions.
The “Cross” combines two sources of extra load: fresh ascent after the saddle and a long finish on the far side. A traverse does not include a second summit, but after the West summit it still commits you to unfamiliar ground with no way of returning quickly to the hut you started from. The two-summit itinerary avoids the cross-mountain logistics, but the extra ascent and the long journey back to the south side remain.
How to choose a route to match your experience
For a first encounter with altitude it makes more sense to start with the standard nine-day itinerary from the south. It lets you learn how you respond to altitude, get used to moving in crampons and work through a normal summit day. An extended route is better chosen after experience of sustained work in the mountains, not merely after good results on the running track or in the gym.
Before a “Cross” or a traverse, it is worth assessing:
- Experience above 4000-5000 m
- The ability to keep going for many hours after a night-time start
- The ability to hold your pace on the descent
- Readiness to move roped up on a glacier
- Freedom from any need to return to your starting point
- Willingness to accept the guide’s decision to change the objective
What happens if the weather changes
None of the three itineraries gives you an automatic right to continue past the first objective. At the saddle and on the summits the guide weighs up the time, the wind, visibility, the state of the snow and ice, the pace of the group and how much everyone has left. If carrying on would make the return unsafe, the route is cut short.
That matters most on the “Cross”: a formal wish to bag both summits must not push a group into the second half of the route without enough time and strength in hand. The rules on attempts and spare days also differ between itineraries and are covered in a separate article.
Compare the demanding Elbrus routes
The listings below cover both directions of the traverse, both directions of the “Cross” and the two-summit itinerary. Each page has its own route sequence, logistics, experience requirements and rules for ending an attempt.
In summary
People choose a traverse in order to cross Elbrus from one side to the other. The two-summit itinerary lets you climb both domes and return to the south. The “Cross” combines both objectives and therefore makes the greatest demands on your endurance and on your ability to keep moving safely after the first summit.
Tell us about your experience at altitude so that we can suggest a route without overstating the difficulty. Telephone: +7(988)382-98-44.