Two Summits of Elbrus, 9 Days

The ascent of both summits of Elbrus is the fullest version of the classic southern route. In a single summit push participants climb the West summit at 5642 m and the East summit at 5621 m.

Elbrus has two independent summits separated by a saddle. They differ in shape, in height and in the views they open onto the Caucasus. Most trips include only the higher West summit, whereas this route lets you see both sides of Elbrus and finish the ascent without having to choose between two objectives.

The trip follows the southern route and uses the infrastructure of the Elbrus region and the high-altitude shelter. Acclimatisation begins in the valley, continues on the treks and finishes with high-altitude hikes on the slope of Elbrus. That sequence helps prepare the body for long work at altitude, but it does not remove the effect of thin air.

Unlike the standard nine-day ascent of Elbrus from the south, the aim of this trip is to climb both summits in one summit push. After the West summit the group returns to the saddle and, in suitable conditions, continues to the East summit.

Climbing the second summit does not require a full descent to the shelter and a repeat of the main part of the route. From the saddle to the East summit there is about 300 m of ascent. The second summit takes roughly 2–3 additional hours, although the actual time depends on the state of the slope, the weather and the pace of the group.

Climbing both summits of Elbrus is harder than the standard route not technically but above all in length and total effort. After the West summit participants have to keep enough strength for the additional altitude gain, for the return to the saddle and for the subsequent descent to the shelter. Good physical condition, properly completed acclimatisation and discipline on the move therefore matter especially.

Altitude affects each person individually. Even a strong and well-prepared participant can adapt slowly to the lack of oxygen. Any deterioration in how you feel must be reported to the guide at once.

The decision to continue after the first summit is taken by the lead guide, who considers the time, the forecast and the actual weather, the state of the route, the speed of movement and how participants feel. If there is not enough safe time or strength in hand, the group begins the descent. The aim of the trip is both summits, but safety always outweighs the original plan.

A long summit day requires general endurance and readiness to move for many hours at altitude. Preparation is best started well in advance.

Weather has a direct effect on whether both summits can be climbed. Strong wind, precipitation, poor visibility or deteriorating snow may make it necessary to shorten the route even after a successful ascent of the first summit.

The route between the summits crosses the saddle of Elbrus. In this area you can see the remains of a Land Rover taken up the mountain in 1997 and now partly buried in snow. This unusual object has become part of the history of climbing on Elbrus.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the Elbrus region.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the trip: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. We drive about 200 km to the hotel in the upper Baksan valley at the foot of Elbrus; the journey takes around three hours. After checking in we have dinner, meet the other participants and hold a briefing on the trip, the route, acclimatisation and the safety rules. Night at the hotel.

Day 2. Acclimatisation hike on Cheget, 3000 m.

After breakfast we make the first acclimatisation hike of the trip, climbing the slope of Cheget to about 3000 m. A gradual altitude gain helps the body begin adapting to the lack of oxygen and lets the guide assess the pace and condition of the participants. After reaching the planned altitude we descend on foot into the valley and return to the hotel. Night at the hotel. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 3. Acclimatisation trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall and the observatory, 3100 m.

We continue acclimatising on a trek to the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at about 2700 m. After a short rest we climb to the observatory at 3100 m. A second consecutive hike allows more time at altitude and prepares us for the move up to the shelter. After the route we descend to the hotel to rest and recover. Night at the hotel. Ascent about 1000 m.

Day 4. Move up to the high-mountain shelter and acclimatisation hike to 4200 m.

After breakfast we ride the cable car up to the high-mountain shelter at 3888 m.

In September the cable car may be closed for scheduled maintenance. If the cable car cannot be used, the guide decides the onward logistics according to the actual situation; a vehicle is hired for the ascent if necessary. If the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket, participants pay the difference. We settle in, rest and after a light lunch or snack walk up the slope of Elbrus to about 4200 m. This first hike after moving up to the shelter helps judge how the body reacts to the sharp change in altitude and prepares us for the next stage of acclimatisation. We return to the shelter. Night in the shelter. Ascent about 500 m.

Day 5. Acclimatisation hike to the Pastukhov Rocks, 4700 m.

We climb to the Pastukhov Rocks at about 4700 m. This is the highest acclimatisation hike of the trip before the ascent of the West and East summits of Elbrus. We move at a steady pace, watch how everyone feels and spend several hours well above the shelter. After reaching the planned altitude we descend to rest and recover. Night in the shelter. Ascent about 800 m.

Day 6. Rest and preparation for the ascent of both summits.

The day is given to recovering strength before a long summit day. We check personal and group equipment and prepare clothing, boots and everything else that is needed. The guides give the final briefing and go through the order of movement, communication within the group and the specifics of the crossing between the West and East summits. The final plan is made according to the forecast, the state of the route and how participants feel. Night in the shelter.

Day 7. Ascent of the West summit, 5642 m, and the East summit, 5621 m.

We set out early in the morning, usually between 02:00 and 04:00. The exact time is decided by the lead guide according to the weather, the state of the slope and the readiness of the group. We first climb the West summit of Elbrus at 5642 m. After returning to the saddle we assess the time remaining, the weather and the condition of the participants. If conditions allow the route to continue safely, we head for the East summit at 5621 m. The second summit requires about 300 m of additional ascent and takes roughly 2–3 hours. The decision to continue is always taken by the lead guide on the route itself.

A snowcat may be used on the ascent where necessary. The decision to use it is taken in advance, no later than 12:00 on the previous day. On summit day the ratio is one guide to three participants. After completing the route we descend to the high-mountain shelter. Night in the shelter. The height difference between the shelter and the high point of the route is 1754 m.

Day 8. Reserve day and return to the hotel.

If the weather, the state of the route or the condition of the group prevented the ascent on the main day, the reserve day is used for a further attempt. The decision is taken by the lead guide on the basis of the actual conditions. If the ascent took place on day 7, we descend by cable car in the morning and return to the hotel. After the end of the high-altitude part of the trip there is time to rest and recover. Night at the hotel.

Day 9. Departure to the airport.

The group transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport leaves at 07:00 — please take this into account when choosing your return flight. If your flight is in the evening, you can leave your luggage in the airport left-luggage office and travel independently by taxi to Pyatigorsk. In the town you can visit the site of Mikhail Lermontov’s duel, the Proval cave and the viewpoint, which in clear weather looks out over Pyatigorsk and Elbrus.

• Professional guides — a lead guide accompanies the group throughout the trip, and assistant guides join for summit day. The ratio is strict: no more than three participants to one guide, so a group of four participants is accompanied by two guides
• Repeat group summit attempts within the days provided on the trip, at no extra charge. If part of the group reaches the summit, the ascent counts as completed and additional attempts for the remaining participants are paid separately
• The services of a cook
• Hotel accommodation in twin rooms for all nights set out in the itinerary
• Accommodation in the high-mountain shelter for the number of nights set out in the itinerary
• All transfers on the trip from Mineralnye Vody airport or railway station and back
• Cable car tickets as set out in the itinerary
• Three meals a day throughout the trip, from dinner on the day of arrival to breakfast on the day of departure
• Group mountaineering and emergency equipment — ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators and a first aid kit
• Hire of a duffel bag for carrying personal and rented equipment for the duration of the ascent

• The snowcat on summit day, paid separately on the spot where it is used. The stated 2026-season charges are 14,000 RUB up, 8,000 RUB down or 22,000 RUB return
• Single occupancy
• National park permit, if one is required for the dates of the trip
• Early check-in or late check-out at the hotel before the start or after the end of the trip. We try to agree additional options with our partners, and when rooms are free early check-in or late check-out is sometimes provided at no charge
• Personal equipment
• Medical insurance
• Additional costs arising from change to the itinerary requested by participants or caused by circumstances the trip does not provide for
• The supplement for an alternative ascent by vehicle if the cable car is closed for maintenance in September and the cost of the vehicle exceeds the price of a cable car ticket

Climbing Elbrus West and Elbrus East can be arranged privately for a family, a group of friends, a climbing club, a corporate team or any other private group. Dates are agreed around what suits you and the availability of guides. A private format lets you:

• Do the trip with no outside participants joining
• Set the number of guides to suit the size and preparation of the group
• Adapt the pace of the acclimatisation days and the climb
• Add days for acclimatisation, rest or reserve
• Change the standard of accommodation and the set of extra services
• Arrange a separate trip for a corporate team

Before the trip we discuss each participant’s fitness and altitude experience, the pace you want, the equipment and the guiding team. In planning it matters especially to allow for the length of summit day and for the extra effort after reaching Elbrus West. The trip is adapted for a private group without cutting the acclimatisation it needs. Whatever the format, the lead guide decides whether to go on to Elbrus East, taking account of the weather, the time and participants’ condition. You can read more about how this is arranged on the private Elbrus ascent page. Get in touch to discuss dates and receive a quote for your group.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Air or rail tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Medical insurance valid in the area of the trip and covering mountaineering, ascents to at least 6000 m, search and rescue, transport and medical evacuation
• For foreign participants: the documents needed to enter the Russian Federation, including a visa where your nationality requires one

We obtain the permits and registrations the route requires ourselves. Where it is needed we give foreign participants visa support and provide the documents for a visa application. We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage.

Important

• Before the trip, check the terms of your policy and make sure that climbing Elbrus, mountaineering, an altitude of 5642 m, search and rescue and medical evacuation are all covered

Climbing both summits of Elbrus needs a longer and more settled weather window than the standard route to one summit. After reaching Elbrus West (5642 m), you need enough time left to cross the saddle, climb Elbrus East (5621 m) and get back to the refuge safely. The main season for the trip is June to September. In that period the length of daylight and the state of the route usually give the best conditions for acclimatising and for both summits. Even so, no month guarantees good weather: wind, cloud, snowfall and the temperature at altitude can all change within a few hours. A great deal of snow usually remains on the slopes of Elbrus in June. The route is more wintry in character, with the possibility of cold spells, strong wind and worsening visibility. Snow cover can make movement easier in places, but its condition needs careful assessment. July and August are the most popular months for climbing Elbrus. Suitable weather windows form more often at this time, and the long daylight leaves more time on the route. Even in midsummer, though, the summits can bring sub-zero temperatures, snow and strong wind. September brings fewer people to the route, but temperatures fall steadily, daylight shortens and early winter conditions become more likely. Both summits are possible where the forecast is favourable and there is enough time in hand, but the demands on warm clothing and wind protection are higher. October to May is not the main season for this trip. Elbrus is considerably colder at this time, daylight is shorter, and strong wind, snowfall and difficult route conditions are more likely. Such climbs call for appropriate experience, preparation and a separate assessment of conditions. Above 5000 m the weather can be sharply different from conditions in the valley. A sunny, calm morning below does not mean conditions on the summits will stay suitable for a long crossing. The lead guide takes the final decision on the start time, on continuing past Elbrus West and on whether Elbrus East can be climbed. They take account of the forecast, the actual weather, the state of the slope, the group’s pace and how participants are feeling. There is more on the seasons and on choosing dates in our piece on the best time to climb Elbrus.

During the trip participants stay in a hotel in the Elbrus region and in a high-altitude refuge on the slopes of Elbrus. The number of nights in each follows the itinerary. Accommodation at the hotel is in twin rooms. Here the group rests after the journey, recovers between acclimatisation days and spends the final night after the high-altitude section. After taking the cable car up, participants stay in a high-altitude refuge at 3888 m. The refuge becomes the main base for the acclimatisation days, for preparing equipment, for climbing Elbrus West and Elbrus East, and for the reserve day. The trip does not include camping. Three meals a day are provided throughout, from dinner on the day you arrive to breakfast on the day you leave. Meals are provided at the hotel and in the high-altitude refuge, with the sustained physical effort and the need to recover properly in mind. We pay particular attention to the quality of the food. The diet includes hot dishes, fresh meat, vegetables and fruit. A cook prepares the meals on the high-altitude section. On summit day the meal pattern allows for the early start and the long hours on the route. Participants prepare for summit day in advance and carry the food and drink provided for in the itinerary. Comfortable accommodation in the valley, staying on the mountain itself and having meals arranged all let you recover properly between days out and keep your strength for both summits.

For the valley part of the trip, participants stay in a hotel in the Elbrus region. The rooms have the usual hotel facilities, including a shower, heating and somewhere to rest after the acclimatisation days. Anything you will not need on the high-altitude section can be left at the hotel. On the mountain the group stays in the National Park refuge at 3888 m. Participants sleep in heated four-person units with individual beds. Bed linen is provided. The refuge has a kitchen, a clean toilet, a constant power supply and sockets for charging phones and other devices. Meals, drinking water and the basic practicalities are arranged on site. There is mobile coverage and 4G internet from MTS at the refuge. Other networks can be unreliable. Higher on the route the signal depends on where you are, on the weather and on the network, so do not count on constant internet access during the acclimatisation days or the climb. Well equipped though the refuge is, conditions at altitude are not those of a hotel. Allow for dry air, cold, early starts, limited personal space, and the need to sort out clothing and equipment carefully before each day out. For the stay in the refuge you need your own toiletries, warm clothing and the items on the equipment list. Prepare everything for summit day in advance, so that you are not hunting for clothing, equipment or personal items in the night. Having the practicalities arranged at altitude helps participants rest between acclimatisation days and recover before the long climb of Elbrus West and Elbrus East.

Rock and Rent stocks all the good-quality equipment you need to climb both summits of Elbrus. If you book in advance we will prepare the full set beforehand, so you can arrive with almost no specialist kit at all, even in shorts. We chose this kit against one criterion above all: how well it suits real conditions on Elbrus, where we have been running climbs since 2001.

We have put this list together with a great deal of care. Between them the company’s guides have run several thousand ascents, so there is nothing superfluous here.

Documents you need:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance
• A voucher for foreign participants

We recommend keeping digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage.

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 30-40 litres
• Duffel bag of 80-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of 0 to +10 °C from June to September inclusive, and -20 to 0 °C from October to May inclusive
• Trekking poles with baskets at least 70 mm across
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your harness
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Three karabiners, ideally large ones, which are easier to handle in mittens
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

Is downhill ski clothing suitable for Elbrus?

• Double or triple mountaineering boots, plastic or leather. Single-layer boots are acceptable only with overboots, which should not be confused with gaiters
• Trekking shoes or boots. You can still meet snow on the first acclimatisation days in May and early June, so trekking boots are preferable then. From mid-June to the end of September trainers will do, provided they stay waterproof and hold the foot securely
• Waterproof shell: waterproof shell jacket and trousers, ideally rated 10,000/10,000 or better
• Fleece top and bottoms
• Base layer, top and bottoms
• A thick, warm down jacket with a hood; a model suitable for Elbrus usually weighs upwards of about 700 g
• Warm mittens
• Thick ski gloves
• Thin fleece gloves
• Bandana, for sun protection in the valley and to keep your throat or face warm in the cold
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for summit day
• Sun hat
• Trekking trousers and T-shirts, preferably long-sleeved
• Trekking socks, ideally a separate pair for each day of the trek

Other items:

• LED head torch with at least 12 hours of battery life
• Category 3-4 sunglasses that fully shield the eyes from side light
• Category 1-2 ski goggles for poor weather
• Vacuum flask, 1 litre, preferably without a push-button lid
• Windproof mask for the lower face; a scarf will partly do the same job
• Good sun cream, SPF 30-50
• SPF 15 lip balm
• Personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace
• Gaiters: not compulsory, but they can be needed, especially in May and June
• Chemical hand warmers: not compulsory, but they can be very useful