Climb Khan-Tengri

Khan-Tengri climb involves top physical loads and requires altitude climbing experience along with high level of mountain climbing skills. The climbing route technically is very challenging and dangerous, requiring a good amount of self-discipline, coherence, excellent skills in belaying and dealing with a variety of mountain terrain along with very good physical fitness.

The itinerary we offer for a Khan Tengri climb with Mountain Guide involves three weeks of carrying 25–30 kg backpacks and camping life in rather uncomfortable conditions, with temperature reaching as low as –40 °C at altitudes above 5,000 m.

And your reward for overcoming all these challenges will be Khan Tegri – the most spectacular of the Tien Shan mountains and one of the world’s most beautiful peaks with its perfectly shaped pyramidal summit.

Day 1. Arrival at Bishkek airport, transfer to a comfortable hotel. After check-in, you will have free time to explore the city: walking along cozy streets, visiting local attractions, or relaxing at the hotel. In the evening, there will be a group dinner and a detailed briefing on the upcoming route. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 2. After breakfast, we head to Karkara camp, located at an altitude of 2200 meters. Tent accommodation and free time for rest and altitude adaptation.
Day 3. The day is dedicated to acclimatization. You will go on an acclimatization hike to the ridge of Inylchek-Too, climbing up to 4100-4200 meters, or to the peak of Bas Karkara (4059 m). After the hike, we return to the camp to recover.
Day 4. In the morning, we take a helicopter flight to the base camp “Southern Inylchek”, located at an altitude of 4000 meters. Basic tent accommodation and rest await you.
Day 5. A day of rest and acclimatization in the base camp. A light walk to the start of the route will help better prepare for further climbing.
Day 6. An acclimatization hike aimed at gradual adaptation of the body to altitude and physical exertion.
Day 7. Today we move to the camp at an altitude of 4300 meters, located at the beginning of the main climbing route.
Day 8. Moving to the next camp located at an altitude of 5400 meters. This stage will bring you closer to the summit and is an important step in acclimatization.
Day 9. Ascent to the camp at an altitude of 5800 meters. With good weather, a radial hike to a slightly higher altitude is possible for better acclimatization.
Day 10. Descent to the base camp to regain strength and enjoy the comfort of the base.
Days 11-12. These days are dedicated to rest. You will have the opportunity to relax, recover, and prepare for the final stage of the climb.
Day 13. Ascent to the camp at an altitude of 4300 meters, beginning of the final stage of the route.
Day 14. Moving to the camp at an altitude of 5800 meters. Here you will spend the night before the decisive summit push.
Day 15. The culmination of the program – climbing Mount Khan-Tengri (7010 m). After conquering the summit, descent to camp 3 (5900 m) for well-deserved rest.
Day 16. Descent to the base camp “Southern Inylchek” (4000 m) to relax after completing the route.
Days 17-19. Additional days in case of unfavorable weather conditions or other unforeseen circumstances.
Day 20. In the morning, a helicopter flight back to Karkara camp, followed by a transfer to Bishkek. After hotel check-in, you will have free time.
Day 21. A free day in Bishkek to enjoy walks, visit local museums, or buy souvenirs.
Day 22. Transfer to the airport and departure from Bishkek.

Guide’s Program for Ascending Khan-Tengri Peak from the North

Day 1. Upon arrival at Bishkek airport, you will be met by your guide, followed by a transfer to the hotel for rest and accommodation. This day will be spent in a relaxed atmosphere, allowing you to explore the capital of Kyrgyzstan, experience its atmosphere, try local cuisine, or simply rest after your journey.
Day 2. In the morning, we begin our journey to Karkara camp, located at an altitude of 2200 meters. This picturesque place will be the first stage of our ascent. Tent accommodation. The evening will be free for adaptation and enjoying nature.
Day 3. This day is fully dedicated to acclimatization. We will make an ascent to the ridge of Inylchek-Too, climbing to an altitude of 4100-4200 meters, or to the peak of Bas Karkara (4059 m). After an eventful day, we return to Karkara camp, where a hot dinner will be waiting for you.
Day 4. In the morning, after a hearty breakfast, an exciting helicopter flight awaits us to the base camp “Northern Inylchek”, located at an altitude of 4000 meters. Comfortable base tents with views of majestic glaciers.
Day 5. On this day, we rest at Base Camp, preparing ourselves and equipment for the subsequent ascent. You will be able to enjoy views of glaciers and peaks, as well as participate in the transportation of part of the equipment to the start of the route.
Day 6. Today we begin the ascent to Camp 1, located at an altitude of 4800 meters. The transition will take about 5-6 hours. After arriving at the camp, we will settle in tents, have dinner, and rest.
Day 7. Descent to Base Camp at an altitude of 4000 meters for rest and recuperation. Overnight stay at Base Camp.
Day 8. Rest day at Base Camp. Walks in the surroundings will allow you to enjoy nature and adapt to altitude.
Day 9. Second ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4800 meters. Tent accommodation.
Day 10. Ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The trail becomes more challenging, but the views of snowy peaks compensate for all efforts. Overnight in tents.
Day 11. Descent back to Base Camp at an altitude of 4000 meters for rest and recovery.
Day 12. Rest day at Base Camp at an altitude of 4000 meters. You can relax, enjoying the peace and power of the surrounding mountains.
Day 13. Ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4800 meters. The group moves along a familiar route.
Day 14. Ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The second ascent to this level of acclimatization is more confident.
Day 15. Ascent to Camp 3, located on the saddle at an altitude of 5900 meters. Here begins the final preparation for the ascent.
Day 16. The culmination of the expedition — climbing Mount Khan-Tengri (7010 m). After reaching the summit, descent to Camp 3 at an altitude of 5900 meters. This day will become an unforgettable moment in your life.
Day 17. Descent to Base Camp “Northern Inylchek” at an altitude of 4000 meters. Hot dinner and well-deserved rest.
Day 18-19. Reserve days in case of bad weather or unforeseen circumstances.
Day 20. In the morning, a helicopter flight to Karkara camp, followed by a transfer to Bishkek. After hotel check-in, you will have the opportunity
Day 21. A free day in Bishkek. This day can be dedicated to walking, visiting attractions, or shopping for souvenirs.
Day 22. Transfer to the airport and departure home with a rich collection of memories.

• All transfers mentioned in the itinerary, including helicopter flights, with up to 25kg of luggage allowed per person
• Mountain guides: one for 5-6 members on acclimatization, and one for 3-4 members on the summit day)
• Accommodation according to the itinerary
• Breakfast, lunch and dinner in Base camp and throughout the ascent and descent.
• Food and gas for high camps
• Breakfasts and dinners during stays in two cities
• All required documents
• Kitchen stuff for BC except for personal cups, spoons and plates.
• Ropes

• Everything that is not mentioned in program
• Airtickets
• Insurance
• Tips
• Porters
• Drinks
• Any costs caused by the changing of the programs