Climb Elbrus from the West

Elbrus from the West is an absolutely “wild” ascent, during which you are unlikely to meet other people. Enjoy mountain views in complete solitude, which many climbers dream of. There are no porters here (you will have to carry your own equipment and part of the public), cable cars and snow groomers, emergency posts and cafes, hotels and roads – only you and the mountains. Climbing Elbrus from the West is not an easy climb, and without experience with a rope, crossing ice fields with closed cracks and other basic skills, climbing this route is strongly not recommended. The descent can optionally be made to the south, thus shortening the program by a day or two, but for this you will have to transfer all the equipment through the top. Climbing Elbrus from the West is an excellent preparation for high-altitude autonomous expeditions – Lenin Peak, Muztag Ata, McKinley, Khan Tengri and others. The experience of moving on glaciers, the experience of spending the night above 4000 meters and the experience of climbing above 5000 meters is highly desirable.

Day 1. Meeting at the airport of Mineralnye Vody, transfer, hotel accommodation, briefing, equipment check, instructing the group. Free time. a sign of arrival by morning flights in order to have time to relax before tomorrow. Dinner and briefing. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Mineralnye Vody – Khurzuk and further by off-road vehicle to the base camp to the clearing of narzans Dzhyly-Su. Acclimatization hike to camp-1 (height 3500m), dropping in equipment parts, descent to the base camp. Our path lies along the grassy slopes to the glacial sea, where the camp will be. The duration of the active part is 4-5 hours. Overnight at the tent.
Day 3. Ascent to camp-1 (3500m), rest. The duration of the track is 3-4 hours. Overnight at the tent.
Day 4. Acclimatization hike to a height of 3900 m, throwing in some equipment, snow and ice exercises, practicing self-holding on the slope and working with a rope. Night in camp-1 (3500m). Overnight at the tent.
Day 5. Trek to camp-2 (altitude 4150m.) In front of the camp is one of the most difficult parts of the route. Duration 4-5 hours. Overnight at the tent.
Day 6. Ascent to the Western shoulder of Elbrus (height 4600m), setting up camp-3 on the Western plateau. Duration 3-4 hours. Overnight at the tent.
Day 7. Climbing the Western summit of Elbrus. From camp-3 on the Western Plateau (4600m) we climb the snowy slope of medium steepness to the very top. Overnight in camp-3 (4600m). Duration 8-12 hours. Overnight at the tent.
Day 8. Reserve day in case of bad weather, descent to camp-1 (3500m). Overnight at the tent.
Day 9. Descent to the Base Camp near the springs of Dzhyly-Su (2500 m). Overnight at the tent.
Day 10. Transfer to Mineralnye Vody. Festive dinner, overnight at the hotel.
Day 11. Transfer to the airport.

• Guides. Leader throughout the program and assistant guides (absolutely strictly in the ratio of 1 guide for 3 clients, that is, if there are 4 clients in the group, then there will already be two guides). We have no limit on the number of attempts to climb a group. However, if part of the group went down, and part did not, then the ascent is considered perfect, additional attempts are paid separately.
• Hotel in Mineralnye Vody, accommodation in 2-3-bed rooms. Number of nights according to the program.
• All transfers according to the program from the airport to the airport.
• Meals throughout the expedition, on the first day only dinner, on the last day only breakfast. The guide may need help with cooking.
• All necessary permits and registrations.
• Group equipment (Tents, ropes, ice screws, walkie-talkies, satellite navigators, first aid kit)
• Rent a trunk for rental and personal equipment during the ascent

• Air tickets
• Single accommodation
• Early check-in/late check-out from the hotel before/after the program (we always try to negotiate with our partners about additional bonuses for our guests, often we are allowed early check-in/late check-out for free
• Personal equipment.
• Climbing insurance with helicopter coverage
• Individual guide
• Porters
• Any deviation from the program
• Any costs caused by the changing of the programs

Documents:

• Passport
• Plane/train tickets
• Medical insurance

Personal equipment:

• Backpack. 70-80l.
• Sleeping bag, comfort temperature from -15C.
• Rug
• Trekking poles be sure to have rings of at least 70 mm
• Steel cats.
• Ice axe classical with a steel beak.
• climbing system.
• Helmet.
• Carabiners – 5 pcs.
• Mustache self-insurance.
• Zhumar
• Ice drill on a separate carabiner
• Descending device.
• Personal utensils.
• 5 meters 5-6 mm. cord.

Clothes and shoes:

• Climbing boots triple or double. Double – plastic or leather – very desirable with an external shoe cover.
• Trekking boots.
• Sneakers (for cities).
• Waterproof layer – Jacket + trousers. The industry offers a range of products from simple 5000/5000 memban to Gore-Tex products.
• Fleece suit.
• Thermal underwear top+bottom.
• Puff. Thick and warm.
• The gloves are warm.
• The gloves are thick.
• The gloves are thin.
• Bandana (in addition to protection from the Sun in the valley, it can be used to warm the throat or face in the cold)
• A cap.
• Warm trekking socks for the day of the ascent.

Travel Accessories

• LED flashlight for head
• Sunglasses
• Ski goggles
• Thermos – 1l. Preferably without a button in the lid.
• Windproof mask for the lower part of the face (with some success it can be replaced with a scarf)
• Leggings
• Sun cream, hygienic lipstick
• Chemical heating pads (not required, but can be very helpful)
• Personal first aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or support bandage.