Climb Kazbek from the North, 5033 m — 9 Days by Request

The northern route on Kazbek starts in Vladikavkaz and runs through the Karmadon direction, the Genaldon hot springs, the moraines of the Maili glacier and the Kazbek plateau. Unlike the southern route from the Georgian side, there is no chain of huts and no familiar tourist infrastructure here: the main part of the trip is spent in tents.

The gain in altitude is spread across several camps: about 2300 m at the hot springs, roughly 3000 m and 3500 m on the approaches, and 4200 m on the Kazbek plateau. Snow and ice sessions and a rest day precede the climb. That acclimatisation is necessary, but it does not remove the requirements for baseline fitness and previous high-altitude experience.

Summit day involves a long stretch across the snow plateau, the climb to the col and a steeper final section. The group moves roped, and the tactics depend on the state of the covered glacier, the crevasses, the wind and the visibility. The final decision to set off and to turn around rests with the lead guide.

Before applying, assess your experience and fitness honestly, work through a preparation plan for a high-altitude ascent, and discuss with us whether the northern route in particular is right for you.

Day 1. Arrival in Vladikavkaz.

The group gathers and meets at the hotel in Vladikavkaz. Equipment is fitted, a visit to the hire shop is made if needed, and there is free time. Dinner and a briefing. Night in a hotel.

Day 2. Transfer to the start of the route and walk to the hot springs, 2300 m.

An early start. Transfer to the start of the route, registration at the border post, and the walk to the hot springs at 2300 m. Night in tents beside the Genaldon thermal springs.

Day 3. Crossing the Kolka and the approach to the Maili glacier, 3000 m.

We cross the Kolka river and approach the lower part of the Maili glacier. Night in tents on the moraine at 3000 m.

Day 4. Move to the camp at 3500 m.

The stage takes 5–6 hours. We follow the path and then easy broken rock, using a fixed rope in places. Night in tents.

Day 5. Climb to the Kazbek plateau, 4200 m.

We climb a narrow but very long snowfield that drops away into the valley. The path then steepens and leads to a rock at 3700 m, where a small platform allows a short rest before the difficult, steep section up to the Kazbek plateau. Beyond that the trail runs beneath a band of rock, which is traversed on fixed metal cables. From there the ridge leads out onto the Kazbek plateau at 4200 m. Night in tents.

Day 6. Snow and ice sessions, rest.

Snow and ice sessions and rest. Night in tents.

Day 7. Ascent of Kazbek.

Summit day. The climb takes about 7 hours and the descent 4–5 hours. We cross the snow plateau to the start of the climb, continue to the col between the two summits at about 4900 m, and then take a further steep step to the top of Kazbek. Night in tents.

Day 8. Reserve day, or descent to the hot springs.

A reserve day, or the descent to camp at the hot springs. Night in tents.

Day 9. Descent and transfer to Vladikavkaz.

Descent and transfer to Vladikavkaz. A night in a hotel, or onward travel home.

• A guide throughout the trip
• The transfer Vladikavkaz – border post – Vladikavkaz
• Meals on the route
• Hire of kitchen equipment and gas for cooking
• Group equipment (ropes, ice screws, radios, satellite navigators, first-aid kit, tents)
• Nights in Vladikavkaz on days 1 and 9

• Flights or travel to Vladikavkaz and back
• Insurance
• Personal equipment
• Personal porters and horses for your own baggage
• Additional costs of evacuation in the event of an accident
• Personal expenses (drinks, internet, telephone calls and the like)
• Taxis in Vladikavkaz
• Any costs arising from change to the itinerary

Kazbek from the north runs only for a private group, a climbing club or a well-prepared group of friends, on your own dates, where guides are free and access to the border zone can be arranged. There are no fixed departures and no published price for this trip.

Before confirming, we check participants’ experience and discuss the weight you can carry, the pace, technical skills and previous acclimatisation. A preparation day can be added if needed, or the ratio of guides to participants changed, but the compulsory acclimatisation section cannot be cut.

For a quote, send us the group composition, the period you want, each participant’s altitude experience and whether you need to hire equipment. We will then confirm the possible dates and what the trip includes.

To join this trip you will need:

• A valid passport
• Tickets to Vladikavkaz and back
• Medical insurance covering mountaineering, an altitude of at least 5033 m, search and rescue, and evacuation
• A border-zone permit, which you obtain yourself through the state services portal once the route and dates are agreed
• Digital copies of your main documents, saved on your phone and in cloud storage

The procedure for border documents depends on your nationality and can change. Agree your dates with the manager before buying tickets, then apply through the state services portal with plenty of time to spare, and check the status of the permit before you travel.

Check the terms of cover against the full text of your policy. There is guidance on our insurance for mountaineers page.

The main season on the northern route is usually July and August, when the approaches and the high-altitude section are more often in summer condition. The start and end of the season depend on snow cover, the state of the rivers, the Maili glacier and the weather on the Kazbek plateau.

The route can bring strong wind, snow, rain, thunderstorms and a sudden loss of visibility. Conditions in the valley and in Vladikavkaz tell you nothing about the weather at 4200-5033 m. After fresh snow, crevasses and snow bridges need especially careful assessment.

The reserve day may be used either for the climb or for the descent. The guide decides, on the actual state of the route and of the group; having a reserve does not guarantee the summit.

Accommodation in Vladikavkaz is provided at the start and end of the trip, as set out in the itinerary. The mountain section is spent in tents: at the hot springs, on the moraine, at the intermediate camp and on the Kazbek plateau.

Meals on the route are included. Food is prepared in self-sufficient camps, so participants help with running the camp and carry an agreed share of the food and group equipment.

Tell us in advance about food allergies, intolerances and medical restrictions. In the high camps it is all but impossible to change the diet once you have set out.

The northern route runs on expedition lines. Once you leave the valley there are no hotels, no showers, no mains electricity and no organised tourist infrastructure. Every night in the mountains is spent in tents.

Mobile signal is unreliable and absent in places. For your electronics you need a power bank, spare cells and protection from damp. Washing is limited by the water available and by conditions in camp.

Each participant is responsible for keeping their own kit in order, for having their equipment ready and for carrying their own load. Group equipment is shared out within the team before setting off.

Documents:

• Passport
• Air or rail tickets
• Medical insurance

Personal equipment:

• Rucksack of 80-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -10 to 0 °C
• Sleeping mat
• Trekking poles, which must have baskets of at least 70 mm
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe with 2-3 metres of 5-6 mm accessory cord for clipping to your harness
• Ice screw (not to be confused with the ice axe)
• Climbing harness
• 3 karabiners
• Cow’s-tail lanyards

Clothing and footwear:

• Triple or double mountaineering boots (doubles either plastic, such as the Scarpa Vega, or leather)
• Trekking boots
• Waterproof shell jacket and trousers (anything from simple 5,000/5,000 membranes to Gore-Tex garments)
• Fleece set
• A set of base layers
• A thick, warm down jacket
• Warm mittens
• Thick gloves
• Thin gloves
• A bandana (as well as sun protection in the valley, it can keep your throat or face warm in the cold)
• Warm hat
• Warm trekking socks for summit day

Other items:

• LED head torch
• Sunglasses
• Ski goggles
• Vacuum flask of 1 litre (preferably without a push-button lid)
• A windproof mask for the lower face, or a buff
• Gaiters
• Sun cream
• Lip balm
• Chemical hand warmers (not compulsory, but they can be very useful)
• A personal first-aid kit
• Elastic bandage and/or a support brace