Climb Korjenevskoy peak

Peak Korzhenevskaya is the third highest peak (altitude 7105 m) of the Pamirs in Tajikistan. This is one of the five “snow leopard peaks” in the former Soviet Union. It got its name in honor of Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of the Russian geographer Nikolai Lvovich Korzhenevsky, who discovered the peak in August 1910. Korzhenevskaya Peak is located about 13 km north of Ismoil Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak), the highest point in the Pamirs in the former Soviet Union.

It forms the end of the northwest fork of the Academy of Sciences Range, a north-south subridge that forms the core of the Pamirs. It rises above the southern bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the summit is the Fortambek Glacier. While most of the Academy of Sciences Ridge is located in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) of Tajikistan, Korzhenevskaya Peak is located slightly west of the GBAO line, in the Jirgatal District (Republican Subordination District). It is usually said that this is the second of the five peaks for the “snow leopard” in terms of climbing difficulty after Lenin Peak.

The climb rivals Communism Peak as it is closer to the deep valley of the Muksu River. The first ascent to Korzhenevskaya Peak was made in 1953 by a group led by A. Ugarov; the climbing group included Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspaev, R. Selijanov, P. Skorobogatov. The group approached through the Fortambek glacier to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and from there to the northern ridge. Peak Korzhenevsky is the second largest peak in the Pamirs after Lenin Peak.

The base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin glacier and the availability of a helicopter make this possible. Peak Korzhenevskaya was climbed from almost all sides, including the first winter ascent in 1986. Most of these ascents were made by Russians. The most common current route up the mountain ascends from the south and reaches the summit ridge on the west side.