In 2016/2017 season we combined expeditions so that you can acclimate by climbing Aconcagua (14 days program) and then climb the Ojos del Salado or take a full program of Ojos del Salado ascent (17 days)
, expanding it with "Blitz" ascent to Aconcagua.
Climbing the two highest peaks of South America: Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado. A successful logistics combination makes it possible not to spend time to acclimatize for the second mountain and get two "almost seventhousanders" in three weeks instead of one. Excellent for acclimatization to the spring eightthousander.
The combined ascent of Aconcagua and the Ojos del Salado will prepare you gently for the real seven thousand metre climb. There’s no cracked ice and 30 degree temperatures, but the conditions are far from hot. South America is famous for its winds and temperatures can be quite low. However, the ease and speed of the ascent, together with the much simpler equipment, allows almost anyone with previous mountaineering experience to reach the summit, unlike, for example, the Snow Leopard program, where physical fitness alone is not enough.
In general, we prefer to acclimatise on Aconcagua, although it is slightly higher than Ojos del Salado. This is due to the logistical peculiarities of both peaks. In terms of time, it is much easier to get to the Ojos than to Aconcagua, there is no long trek, there is no need to adapt to the schedule of the mules, there is no need to be examined by a doctor at the base camp, taking into account the percentage of oxygen, and many other problems. The views from the Ojos del Salado are breathtaking, but the wind is stronger and it’s completely deserted, which affects the psychological state of the participants during a long stay.
Day 1. Arrival in Mendoza. Obtaining the permit to climb Aconcagua. Important! On Saturdays the permit office is only open until noon! Transfer to Penitentes (2700m). Sending of the main mules to the base camp. Check into the hotel.
Day 2. Transfer to the entrance of the National Park (Laguna Horcones) and continue to the confluence (3300m, 2-3 hours). Setting up the camp. Light acclimatisation after lunch.
Day 3. Early acclimatisation radial access to the Plaza de Francia (4200m), with views of the South Wall (2700m). 4-5 hours. Return to camp.
Day 4. Long jump (8-9 hours) to the main base camp Plaza de Mulas (4350m). The path follows the wide valley of Playa Ancha. Setting up the camp.
Day 5. The transition from Plaza de Mulas Camp-1 (Plaza Canada, 5000m) or higher (5300m camp). Descent to the base camp.
Day 6. Rest day at Plaza de Mulas (4350m).
Day 7. Climb from Plaza de Mulas (4350m) to Camp 1 (Plaza Canada, 5000m).
Day 8. Climb from Plaza Canada to Nido de Condores (5600m).
Day 9. Climb from Nido de Condores (5600m) to Camp 3 (Cholera, 6000m).
Day 10. Ascent to the summit of Aconcagua (6957m), descent to Camp 3 (6000m).
Day 11. Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 12. Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 13. Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 14. Descent to the Plaza de Mulas base camp. Crossing from the base camp to the Laguna de Horcones. Transfer to Santiago. Relaxation and farewell dinner.
Day 15. Transfer to the airport. Arrival in Copiapo. Meeting at the airport and transfer to the hotel. Purchase of products for the ascent and preparation of the necessary documents. Walk around the city for those who wish. Night at the hotel.
Day 16. Final preparations for the ascent. Transfer by jeep to the Atacama camp (5260m).
Day 17. Transfer to the Tehos camp at 5800m. Early dinner and overnight in shelter or tents.
Day 18. Early wake up at 4am, breakfast. Start of ascent. Typically, it takes 10-11 hours to reach the summit. Climb to Ojos del Salado (6893m). Descent to the Atacama refuge at 5260m. Possible relocation to a refuge at 4500m. Dinner and rest in a comfortable refuge.
Day 19. Reserve a day.
Day 20. Reserve a day.
Day 21. Transfer to Copiapo (6-7 hours). Overnight at the hotel.
Day 22. Transfer to the airport. Flight to Santiago.