Not sure which route to choose for climbing Elbrus? In that case, the northern route is well worth considering. What exactly makes it unique, and how does it differ from the southern route? First and foremost, it’s a route for those who want climbing in its purest form. Along this way every climber can immerse themselves completely in nature and, so to speak, be left alone with the mountain — isn’t that every true climber’s dream? If comfort matters to you, on the other hand, this route probably isn’t for you: the southern side has a cable car and other modern conveniences, while here you’re stripped of all of that. Just you and the mountain. What’s more, it was on this very route, back in 1829, that the first ascent of Elbrus was made.
In broad terms, the route breaks down as follows. The climb begins by reaching the overnight camp on the moraine, at 3800 metres. From there you head towards the German Airfield and Lunnaya Polyana (‘Moon Meadow’), at 3450 metres. From the moraine the route moves onto ice or snow, and continues upward to Lenz Rocks at 4500 metres.
The standard route runs along Lenz Rocks and then climbs directly to the summit. Partway up the rocks there’s the option to turn right and traverse to the Saddle of the mountain, from where any climber can go on to either the Eastern or the Western summit. Any discussion of climbing Elbrus would be incomplete without mentioning acclimatisation, since without it climbing is impossible, especially for anyone new to the mountains. A standard acclimatisation schedule looks roughly like this: day one — arrival and an overnight stay at the popular Emmanuel Glade, at 2250 metres. Day two — an outing to cache food and gear on the moraine at 3800 metres. Day three — the climb up to 3800 metres, with an overnight stay there. Day four is set aside for an outing towards Lenz Rocks, at 4500 metres. Day five is a rest day, and day six is the summit day itself. Day seven is kept as a weather-contingency reserve, day eight is for the descent, and day nine for departure.
On summit day the total height gain comes to around 1800 to 1900 metres, comparable to the climb from the Barrels on the southern route. Reaching the top can take up to ten hours, which is why climbers often set off at night, leaving at around one or two in the morning. If the weather is unsettled, climbers may run out of time to complete the climb, in which case they sometimes decide to spend the night on Lenz Rocks, at the so-called helicopter pad on Middle Rocks, at 4800 metres.
The summit climb usually begins directly from the Northern Hut, at 3800 metres. The route follows the glacier towards Lenz Rocks. The ice in this area is extremely hard, and placing crampons or an ice axe securely can be difficult. Between 3900 metres and Lenz Rocks the route crosses a crevasse zone, so travel must be roped up at all times. As for the classic line up Elbrus’s Eastern Summit from the north, it climbs through Lenz Rocks, a series of rocky ridges running roughly parallel to one another up to 5200 metres. Some of these rock outcrops reach ten metres in height. From the lower part of Lenz Rocks the route climbs to the right of the rock ridge towards Middle Rocks, where there’s a wide ledge known as the helicopter pad — a helicopter crashed here in 2010.
Middle Rocks on Lenz Rocks also allows a traverse across to Elbrus’s Saddle, at 5300 metres. This route is longer, but from the Saddle it’s possible to climb either the eastern or the western summit of the mountain. The traverse from Lenz Rocks to the Saddle crosses a zone riddled with crevasses, so here too travel must be roped up.
The Saddle of Elbrus is a rocky col that holds a small hut intended for emergency use only — staying there should not be part of any plan, and it’s meant only for genuine emergencies. From the col, the climb to the Eastern Summit begins, while the path to the Western Summit starts a little further south. The Eastern Summit is dome-shaped — in effect a crater, though not a sharply defined one. A rock outcrop rises on the northern side of the summit, and some believe the highest point of the mountain is actually located there.