Intense heat greeted us in Nalchik. Had I been alone, I would most likely have walked to the bus station and looked there for transport to Terskol. Since I was with a group, however, I decided to follow the collective decision. We found a taxi that could take us to our destination for a reasonable price. The driver entertained us with interesting stories along the way, while cows wandered on both sides of the road. Two and a half hours later, we arrived in Azau, tired and hungry. The driver recommended one of the local cafes, so we went there. There was not much choice, and we selected the closest one. We did not regret it: the small, cosy place served decent food at affordable prices. We later learnt about better cafes nearby, but at the time we were perfectly satisfied.
After lunch, the men began looking for accommodation. We found inexpensive rooms at a hotel with all the necessary amenities: a shower, refrigerator and television. In the morning, we discovered a cosy cafe serving aromatic coffee, which we enjoyed alongside the local guides. Breakfasts, like the other meals, were substantial and nourishing, almost as though designed to prepare us for a long journey. Later, while visiting the local rental shops, we found most of them closed. With some effort, however, we obtained the equipment we needed. We divided the load fairly, assigning 15 kilograms to each person. I carried the kitchen equipment, while Kostya carried the tent.
Misha went ahead at his own pace, while Kostya and I moved slowly but confidently. We reached the Krugozor station in an hour and a half, ate a snack there and met some old acquaintances. The route to the Mir station proved more difficult because of the altitude and steep slope, but a group of Polish climbers joined us on this section. We continued together despite the deteriorating weather. The wind strengthened and snow began to fall, so we decided to use the chairlift to reach Garabashi, where deep snow awaited us.
Conditions at the Garabashi refuge were basic, although the prices matched those of the hotel. That evening, we walked around the area despite the strong wind. We slept poorly during the night, possibly because the altitude of 3800 metres was affecting us. In the morning, I went outside to look at the moonlight and clear sky. At dawn, I took my crampons onto the slope to test them and found walking in them quite comfortable. After breakfast, we headed to the summit camp and reached it within half an hour. There, we settled into a small room with bunk beds.
During the afternoon, the wind strengthened and a blizzard began. Snow almost completely buried the Polish climbers who were living in a tent. The weather was worrying, but the morning was clear, and I decided to ascend to the Pastukhov Rocks for acclimatisation. Following a marker, I had to fight the gusts of wind, while cloud and poor visibility were discouraging at times. Gradually, I reached the upper point and decided that I had achieved my goal for the day. The descent took longer and required considerable effort, but in the end I returned to camp exhausted yet satisfied with what I had accomplished.