The only constant here is the wind, which repeatedly howls with furious force. There is cold, too, and hypoxia. At the same time, everything here feels real and exceptionally vivid. Clouds drift beneath you like enormous white bears. There can be a dawn here that you could never see from below the clouds. There is a great deal of snow, and the sky feels very close. Elbrus is here, with its two summits. Every step you manage to take matters. Every breath matters, if only because it gives your body a little oxygen. Every moment lived to the full matters as well. It is also incredibly easy simply to lose your footing and pass beyond the boundary. That boundary is precisely what makes everything around you feel so utterly real. Some might say that life does not exist above five thousand metres. Those would not be empty words, because it truly is extremely cold and windy there, with almost nothing to breathe. Yet we know very well that this is where real life is found. Nobody ever says farewell to the mountains. Nor, it should be said, does anyone ever conquer them. You can only tell the mountains, ‘Until we meet again.’ You can only climb them.
Equipment is, of course, one of the genuinely important elements of a mountain ascent, and it must be of very high quality. I approached the matter responsibly. Long before the trip, I asked old mountaineering friends and searched online for information about every model. I read a great deal and analysed what I found, then decided what to buy and what to hire. Here is a brief account of my personal equipment. For mountain boots, I had my old, time-tested pair. They had front and rear welts for crampons. They did not have Gore-Tex, but they did have good insulation. This was my third mountain trip in them, and they continued to please me. I also had excellent trekking socks, several different pairs. There were good wool socks for the summit attempt and other cold outings. I chose a wool pair, as well as knee-high wool socks. My guide later looked at them and said that they were not proper socks at all. He also said that it was the insulation in my boots that had saved my feet from frostbite. Later, while we were wandering around the market at Cheget, the guide even gave me a pair of socks. Naturally, I had crampons as well: a semi-rigid pair borrowed from a good friend. I decided not to take an ice axe because it did not seem especially important for this version of the ascent, and instead walked with trekking poles. I also had a main rucksack. It was rather unusual, but most importantly, roomy and comfortable. Fortunately, we did not have to carry our rucksacks very often. Finding a summit pack presented more of a problem. For a long time, I could not decide whether to use my own or choose the lighter one. In the end, I chose the lighter pack. Overall, it was perfectly adequate and roomy. For a sitting pad, I chose one from Decathlon. It was comfortable to sit on. When selecting trekking poles, I opted for the lightest pair. I also liked the handles and the delicate pale-blue colour, which seemed almost to symbolise winter on Elbrus. The poles used twist locks. This was not an obstacle and could even be helpful, as I often needed to change their length. From time to time, however, it felt as though water or condensation entered the poles. It repeatedly froze inside them, making the locks difficult to loosen. I found an excellent sleeping bag. It was warm, cosy and so comfortable that I did not want to leave it. I also had an excellent, dependable sleeping mat: an ordinary thick Izhevsk foam pad that was already beginning to show its age. In the mountains, especially in winter, a good, reliable down jacket is indispensable. It should be selected in advance, with attention to quality and a proven manufacturer. Waterproof and windproof jackets are also available, and all of them are very useful on the slopes of Elbrus. Waterproof trousers are likewise essential, without exaggeration. I had already tested mine during a kayaking trip in Karelia. I carried windproof trousers as well, because on that trip Elbrus gave us very strong storm-driven rain, and they were worth having. The brand I selected had first been tested on the northern slope four years earlier and had undergone many further trials since. I wore an old Polartec fleece that was very warm and therefore time-tested; it was one of my favourites. Naturally, thermal base layers are indispensable in the mountains. I had Polartec trousers and a top, which were both warm and comfortable. I spent a long time searching persistently for a wind mask. I believed that going to altitude in an ordinary balaclava was genuinely risky. I found the balaclava I needed in a specialist shop. It was precisely what I wanted, and the price was acceptable. The mask was fleece and quite warm, with an opening for the nostrils that made it reasonably easy to breathe. I found my size almost immediately. As for gloves, I managed to take only one pair. They were generally excellent but let me down somewhat during the summit attempt: my fingers became ferociously cold and I was genuinely afraid of frostbite. Even the gloves’ insulation helped little. My hands probably needed more insulation for the climb. I think warm gloves should form the first layer, with thick, large and very warm mittens over them; down mittens could be a good option. Special sunglasses are another necessity on Elbrus. At times, the sun is so fierce that glasses offering a high degree of protection are essential. In addition to sunglasses, it is important to carry ski goggles in the mountains. Mine were a gift from an old friend who loved the mountains as much as I did. I had to buy a head torch for this trip because I had lost my previous one somewhere. Why is such a torch needed in the mountains? The answer is obvious: a summit attempt begins late at night while it is still dark. The torch lights the route and helps you avoid trouble along the way. I had minor difficulties with my trainers. I needed to buy an excellent new pair but could not find anything suitable for a long time. I wanted something stylish and comfortable at once. Eventually, I found exactly what I had been seeking: attractive trainers without anything showy about them. They began to rub slightly on the second day of walking, but it was not too serious and I could still rate them very highly. When packing for the trip, do not forget flip-flops either. You will need them while staying in the cottage.
It is important to carry not only ski goggles and sunglasses but also sunscreen. It genuinely helps during an Elbrus ascent; otherwise, you can suffer sunburn. It is better to choose the highest protection available. Rather than carrying personal sunscreen with protection factor fifty, we took several tubes for the whole group. I also did not personally need to take items such as a harness, carabiners, rope or other climbing hardware. We carried only some shared equipment for the ice-training sessions. Naturally, anyone preparing for a climb should remember a camera. A thermos is genuinely useful for keeping tea hot during acclimatisation outings and the summit attempt. I also decided to take special neoprene covers for the thermos, but it turned out to retain heat perfectly well without them. Ordinary civilian trousers proved useful too. Because my old pair had begun to look rather dreadful, I chose new, attractive trousers for this trip. Most importantly, they fitted properly. I did not need a helmet on this occasion. Personal-hygiene supplies are also indispensable in the mountains. Anyone travelling there will surely understand how necessary they are, especially wet wipes. Whoever invented them deserves thanks. They are irreplaceable on a mountain journey because water is not available everywhere. At times, hygiene products like these are extremely helpful. Lip balm belongs in this category as well. It is just as essential as sunscreen: if you do not want your lips to become chapped and burnt by the sun, make sure you take this indispensable item. It is important to carry a good first-aid kit in the mountains. At times, it can be literally vital, particularly if an accident or other problem occurs. A first-aid kit can help anyone. A personal kit is preferable, but even if you do not have one, the group must have a shared kit containing all the essentials. Be sure to take spare underwear too, and do not forget a waterproof rucksack. I should also mention the importance of carrying a small towel. I forgot mine and sometimes missed it badly. My neck repeatedly became cold, and I wanted to wrap it in something cosy and warm. Another very useful item on a trip is a multi-socket adaptor. Few people remember one, yet it can be extremely useful. All the remaining equipment was shared by the group.
The financial side of a trip is also important. Before travelling, you should study the matter thoroughly so that no unpleasant surprises arise later. Find out whether currency-exchange offices are available and whether card terminals can be used. It is better to ask an extra question than to regret a missed opportunity afterwards. In practice, you can put all your questions to your guide, who will probably explain the forthcoming mountain trip in detail. Do not be embarrassed to ask again; at least this will help avoid awkward situations later. Even good information and all the necessary equipment, however, cannot guarantee a successful ascent. Physical and psychological preparation are important too. This naturally requires considerable time and effort, and it is better to begin six months in advance. If you have less time, even a month or two may help you feel better in the mountains, or at least better than less-prepared climbers. You will thank yourself for it repeatedly afterwards.
My own preparation was running: I began with short runs and then increased the distance, and in time I felt much better in the mountains. I also walked up the stairs of tall buildings and, over time, gradually increased the weight of my rucksack. You must also prepare mentally for the climb. Think positively, while recognising that an ascent is not easy and will require work. It is neither a holiday nor a resort experience but work, first and foremost work on yourself. It means working through your fears, uncertainty and much more. When you climb into the mountains, you begin to see the surrounding world differently. Life itself becomes entirely different.