Climb Elbrus from the East, 12 Days

The eastern route is noticeably different from the busy southern ascent. The approach starts at the northern edge of the village of Elbrus and follows the Irik-Chat valley. Above the forest and the alpine meadows the group crosses the Irik-Chat pass at 3667 m, crosses a glaciated section and comes out onto the Achkeryakolsky lava flow. The route to the East summit of Elbrus, 5621 m, follows that lava flow.

Acclimatisation is built into the approach. The camps rise gradually: from the valley to the area of the pass, and then to the high camp at about 4100 m. Before the ascent the trip includes an acclimatisation hike to roughly 5000 m and a rest day. That structure does not remove the demands on fitness: participants walk with rucksacks for several days and live without shelters.

This is a route to choose not as another way of getting up Elbrus, but for the sake of a self-supported expedition. Before booking, compare it carefully with the standard Elbrus routes and review your own preparation, your experience of carrying loads at altitude and the cover provided by your insurance policy.

Day 1. Meeting in Mineralnye Vody and transfer to the village of Elbrus.

The group meets at Mineralnye Vody airport. Two group transfers are provided on the first day of the trip: the first leaves at 12:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 11:00, and the second leaves at 15:00 for participants whose flights are scheduled to land no later than 14:00. Please allow time for baggage reclaim and for leaving the terminal when booking. If a flight is delayed and you miss the group transfer by more than 30 minutes, we will help you order a private transfer, which the participant pays for separately. After the drive into the Elbrus region we check personal and group equipment, divide the loads and go through how the team will work on the self-supported part of the route.

Day 2. Approach through the Irik-Chat gorge.

We start the route from the village of Elbrus and walk up the Irik-Chat gorge. The first camp is set at about 2300 m. The day is there for a calm start to the trekking rhythm and for the beginning of gradual acclimatisation.

Day 3. Move up below the Irik-Chat pass.

We continue up the valley and move the camp higher, into the area below the pass. The guide chooses the exact campsite according to the state of the trail, the weather and the pace of the group.

Day 4. Irik-Chat pass and skills session.

We cross the Irik-Chat pass at 3667 m, make camp at about 3700 m and hold a session on moving in crampons, using an ice axe and working as a roped party. These skills are needed on the glaciated and summit sections of the route.

Day 5. Out to the Achkeryakolsky lava flow.

We cross the glaciated section in roped parties and continue towards the Achkeryakolsky lava flow. The high camp is established at about 4100 m.

Day 6. Acclimatisation hike.

We climb in the direction of the summit route to about 5000 m and return to the camp at 4100 m. The hike helps the body adapt and lets the guide assess the condition of the participants before the summit attempt.

Day 7. Rest and preparation.

We recover after the acclimatisation hike, check clothing and technical equipment and prepare food and water for an early start. The guide sets the departure time according to the actual forecast and the state of the route.

Day 8. Ascent of the East summit of Elbrus.

At night or in the early morning we leave the high camp and climb the Achkeryakolsky lava flow to the East summit of Elbrus, 5621 m. From the summit we return to the high camp by the same route.

Day 9. Reserve day.

The day is used for a second attempt if weather or route conditions prevented the previous one. If the ascent went to plan, we rest and begin preparing for the descent.

Day 10. Descent into the Irik-Chat valley.

We strike the high camp and start back through the area of the pass. The guide chooses the campsite according to the pace of the group and the actual conditions.

Day 11. Out to the village of Elbrus.

We finish the walking part of the route, come out at the village of Elbrus and return to ordinary infrastructure. The rest of the day is for recovery after the self-supported section of the trip.

Day 12. Transfer to Mineralnye Vody.

We drive to Mineralnye Vody. The time of the return flight or train must be agreed before tickets are bought, so that a margin remains for the descent from the mountain.

• The work of the mountain guides; on summit day the ratio is no more than one guide to 3–4 participants
• Group transfers Mineralnye Vody – village of Elbrus – Mineralnye Vody as set out in the itinerary
• Three meals a day on the mountain part of the route: breakfast, dinner and a snack while moving
• Prielbrusye National Park tickets
• Registration of the group with the state mountain rescue service

• Air or rail tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back
• Personal mountaineering, trekking and camping equipment
• Hire of personal equipment
• Medical insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering to 5621 m and evacuation
• Single occupancy and any services not included in the agreed group quote
• Costs arising from change to the itinerary requested by participants

We run the eastern route only for private and corporate groups. Before confirming, we discuss each participant’s experience and fitness, the make-up of the team, your preferred dates and the equipment needed. We then work out the price and fix what the trip includes.

You can add days for acclimatisation or reserve, dedicated guiding, and a separate ground itinerary for colleagues or family who are not going to the summit. We will not cut the basic acclimatisation or remove reserve days to make the schedule faster.

• A valid passport
• Tickets to Mineralnye Vody and back, bought once the transfer times are agreed
• Medical insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering to 5621 m and evacuation
• Digital copies of your documents on your phone and in cloud storage

The eastern route runs in the summer season, when the approach via Irik-Chat and the high-altitude section are usually open for a multi-day trip. Even in summer Elbrus can bring strong wind, snow, poor visibility and rapid changes in the state of the glacier.

The dates in the calendar set the frame of the expedition, but they do not guarantee a summit on any particular day. The guide adjusts the timing of the stages, the camp site and the decision to climb day by day, on the actual weather and the state of the group. A reserve day is built in for that purpose.

On the mountain section the group lives in tents. There are no refuges and no permanent tourist infrastructure on the eastern approach. The accommodation before setting out and after returning is agreed together with the quote for the private or corporate group.

Group meals are provided on the self-sufficient section: breakfast, dinner and a snack on the walking stages. Discuss dietary restrictions, allergies and any vegetarian or other special diet before the trip is confirmed.

After leaving the village of Elbrus the group spends several days away from roads, shops, showers and mains electricity. Water is taken from the sources available on the route, once the guide has assessed them. Devices can only be charged from your own power banks.

Mobile signal and internet are unreliable or absent over much of the route. Warn family and friends in advance and be prepared for the fact that regular contact during the expedition is not possible.

Anything you are missing can be reserved in advance from Rock and Rent. The final list is checked with the guide before departure.

Personal equipment

• Rucksack of 80-100 litres
• Sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -15 °C or lower
• Foam sleeping mat
• Trekking poles
• Crampons
• Classic ice axe
• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Two karabiners
• Cow’s-tail lanyards
• Ice screw on its own karabiner
• Ascender
• Your own eating utensils

Clothing and footwear

• Double mountaineering boots
• Trekking boots
• Waterproof jacket and trousers
• Fleece layer
• Base layers: top and bottoms
• Warm down jacket
• Warm mittens
• Thick and thin gloves
• Hat and face protection against the wind
• Warm trekking socks

Useful extras

• Head torch with a spare set of batteries
• Sunglasses
• Ski goggles
• Vacuum flask of 1 litre without a push-button lid
• Gaiters
• Sun cream and lip balm
• Chemical hand warmers, optional
• A personal first-aid kit; the organiser does not prescribe medication
• Elastic bandage or a support brace
• Power bank for your phone and other devices